Monday, June 29, 2009

Shufflin' Around.

Posted by Kat Robinson on Mon, Jun 29, 2009 at 10:29 AM

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Buffalo Grill has been a staple around these parts for ages (since 1981 for the original Riverdale location and since 1988 over on Bowman Road). But there seems to be a particular issue with the restaurant, something that any 21 year old would be pressed to answer… “what do you really want to be when you grow up?”

At 21 (and 28), is Buffalo Grill a burger joint, a soup-salad-sandwich place, TexMex, what?

This might be calling it too early. After all, there’s no chance of either restaurant going under. Those mounds of generous French fries alone should ensure that. The dinner salads (with their inexplicably complete dousing of bacon) are ample, and there’s enough variety on the menu for almost everyone to be happy.

But, take for instance, the most recent order of Tortilla Flats ($8.19) I picked up. Used to be, this mound of ever-increasing nacholand joy was topped with a sharp layer of Cheddar cheese melted lovingly under a broiler. No more. Now its chili, black olives, lettuce, onions, tomatoes, jalapenos and chips are covered in cheese dip. Mind you, it’s not a bad cheese dip, but it’s disappointing.

(more on the jump)

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 Then there’s the Grilled Albacore Tuna platter ($13.79) which… I dunno. Seemed small to me, but that just might be the fact that there’s a huge chunk of “Arkansas Toast” next to it on the plate. Tasty, but… there was just something missing.
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One thing that’s never hit or miss, though, are the burgers. Good meaty burgers that can stand their own with those from Arkansas Burger Company, Cothams, and more. And the Ribeye Steak ($16.79) is a 16 ounce offering to the meat deities… just enough char to induce thoughts of sweating over a backyard grill in the sunshine, without breaking a sweat.

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One more thing. There’s dessert. You’re going to win with the Brownie Sundae ($5.99) all the way around, no doubt about it. And the Apple Pie ($3.99) is something wonderful. But if you’re going to dress up your pie, I’d suggest going one way or another -- Cheddar cheese OR ice cream. Because the two together? Well, my suggestion is not to repeat my mistake. I still don’t know what I was thinking.

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Both locations are open 11 a.m. to 9 p.m. Monday - Thursday and 11 a.m. to 10 p.m. Friday and Saturday. The Bowman road location is bigger, but they both do takeout. (501) 296-9535 for the Rebsamen Park Road location and (501) 224-0012 for the Bowman Road store.

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Kat, don't blame yourself for wanting it all. Sometimes two great things just don't seem bad together when you think about it. And it gives you a good story to tell. Like this one....I once asked for scallops to be put on a salad at Acadia that had Stilton cheese. I love scallops; I love Stilton. The two do NOT love each other. So when I say "I've never had anything bad at Acadia" and people are skeptical, I can pull out this story. Not at all their fault. They were willing to honor my choices, just as the menu says, and didn't act like I was making a horrible decision. But it wasn't a good combo and I've never tweaked their food again!

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Posted by EY on 06/29/2009 at 8:38 PM

I had a similar experience ordering chicken nachos. I was expecting the melted sharp cheddar and was a bit dismayed when the nachos were delivered smothered in cheese dip. Yes, it is good cheese dip, but now the chicken nachos are no different from what I could get at Chili's or some other Tex-Mex joint. Too bad.

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Posted by Tom D. on 07/01/2009 at 9:12 AM

My wife and I love the Buffalo Grill,but we really miss the old Veggie Nachos! It's just not the same with the cheese dip! Everything else is still great though. Actually we never can bring ourselves to try anything other than a burger because they're so good.

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Posted by alamkarb on 07/02/2009 at 12:16 AM

Those tortilla flats are so big that (unless 4 people get them as an appetizer) they get cold before you can finish them. After everything cools down, cheese melted under a salamander is just better than cold cheese dip. Not that I mind cold cheese dip--just with crisp chips.

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Posted by hugh mann on 07/05/2009 at 12:54 PM
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