Thursday, September 1, 2011

Burger joint of the week: Big Orange

Posted by Kat Robinson on Thu, Sep 1, 2011 at 9:11 AM

EVERYTHINGS SO ORANGE:  Maytag Blue Burger & Dreamy Creamyscicle at Big Orange
  • Kat Robinson
  • EVERYTHING'S SO ORANGE: Maytag Blue Burger & Dreamy Creamyscicle at Big Orange
I usually wait a while before visiting a brand new restaurant to pass judgment. Well, as much as I pass judgment. I mean, I like to say I’m a food writer, not a food critic. And I believe that’s for the most part true… but… er, I think I’m getting off the subject here.

I didn’t feel I had to wait all that long before visiting Big Orange, though. I mean, after all, Scott McGehee and John Beachboard have their ducks in a row with Za Za. They know how to run a restaurant.

That being said… okay, I’ll just say it. Wow.

Walked in yesterday at lunch and the place was packed. There was a line at the door. If I’d brought my famdamily as I had originally intended we’d have waited. Being just me, there was enough room to stick me somewhere and let me watch and do my thing.

The place was hopping. After I ordered my Dreamy Creamyscicle float ($4) I just sorta watched for a few minutes. It was loud. People were talking. Babies were smiling. One round tray after another was coming out of the kitchen crowded with burgers on plates, fries in bowls and chips in buckets. There was a very good vibe going on. In fact, I think I heard the Doobie Brothers way in the background.

I knew I’d be ordering more food than I was going to eat there — the hubster’s been getting over a cold and I wanted to take something home to him. He was getting a salad. He didn’t know it at that point but since I knew I needed to try a burger and a salad he was just going to have to deal with that. He should have sucked it up and come with me, quite honestly. Hunter would love this place.

Especially those straws. My Dreamy Creamyscicle float showed up, a big tall glass of orangeness with a big orange straw. They BOTH matched the paint job. I actually asked if the paint had been matched to the float. Turns out, it’s the other way around — but I digress.

I sipped a little on my float while my order was in. The Dreamy Creamyscicle is unlike any Creamscicle-type beverage I’ve had before, and it took me a few minutes to figure it out. The secret? Real orange juice. No joke. Ah, it was so good.

But it wasn’t as good as my burger. I’d ordered a Maytag Blue ($8.50), which had been a hard choice over the Spicy Pimento Cheese ($7.50) but once I saw the line “pepper jelly” in the description it had to be mine.

I have to explain something here. I have a bias against well done burgers. I eat them, sure, but if I have a choice I want them medium rare. I don’t want it to bleed but I do want to feel flesh, know what I mean? Okay.

The menu says burgers will be cooked to medium well unless ordered otherwise. Yay. Okay, Big Orange is using fresh-never-frozen Creekstone beef. So of course I order it medium rare. And Big Orange gets the big star — because my burger was PERFECTLY medium rare. No bleeding, warm not hot pink center, nicely crusted burger, char-grilled over gas with barely enough salt and pepper to give it character. The Angus beef just sings “hey, I’m a cow. I’m so tasty!”

And half the audience left at that remark. Oops. Sorry.

And you know I’ll brag on a good burger patty. But this burger was the real deal, top to bottom. Custom made buttered bun that perfectly fit the patty. Butter leaf lettuce. Micro-thin slices of red onion. Flavorful tomato. I tasted Maytag blue cheese but didn’t really see it (honestly, I ate the damn thing so fast I likely inhaled it). Sweet and spicy pepper jelly with just a hint of cumin. This — this is the sort of burger I would make at home if I had the time and dedication to treat my family right… and didn’t have a job, you know? There’s a lot of work and man hours in that burger.

I cut it in half (I’ve been doing that, taking half home for later or for the hubster so I don’t overeat) but the heck with it — I ate ALL of it. I didn’t even regret that move until I was almost home and the sudden sensation of FULL sunk in. I shouldn’t do that. But I couldn’t help myself.

Now, it’d have been bad enough if I’d just had the burger. But no. I had to try the chips. Heck, P. Allen Freakin’ Smith adores the chips. The waitresses wear shirts advertising them. They’re Kennebec chips made from Kennebec potatoes, fried right on site and sprinkled with a really awesome spice blend and served with a peppered mayo. And the chips and the mayo are both orange. Heck, the burger bun is orange. I had a symphony of orange to shoot — and almost every photo I took was orange. Wasn’t a bad filter.

The chips, though — get them. Share them. I took a ton home with me because there were just too many of them. They’re crisp and thin and sturdy enough to dip or put on your burger — that is, if the burger wasn’t so good you needed to enhance the crunch of… okay, I’m about to go on a tangent again and I shouldn’t. They’re good chips. Get them.

So, as I was saying. I ordered a Thai Chop Salad ($9.50) for the hubster. He was kind enough to offer me the largess of a few bites. The dang salad eats like a dinner. I kid you not. Big chunks of steak along with cilantro, cabbage, red peppers, cherry tomatoes… with this great soy-heavy Thai dressing and some smattering of peanut bits. Hearty. Oh, but there are fresh jalapenos in it, a fact both the hubster and I overlooked until we each had our own pepper-bite encounter. I bet they’d leave them off if you asked.

I had figured the salad would have been more like the Za Za sort of salad, tossed with dressing and bowl-served. Nope. The salads I saw today have their very own character to them. Still fresh, though.

Anyway… yes, I have to go back. I have promised two other people outside the family a visit. You should go. My suggestion, though, is to go either very early (11ish) or a little late (1ish) to lunch so you don’t have to wait in line. Oh, do be aware — there’s an afternoon lull where the place is closed. Don’t go there then.

Big Orange is open 10:30 a.m. to 2:30 p.m. and 5-10 p.m. Tuesday through Sunday. I’m wondering if it’s going to be open on Mondays after Labor Day… we’ll see. It’s in the Promenade at Chenal, across the alley from Bravo Cucina Italiana. (501) 821-1515 or check out the website.

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Comments (11)

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Not familiar with Creekmore beef and a google search didn't get me anywhere. Can you tell us more about it? Love when the bun is not an afterthought. That looks amazing. Also, love chips with mayo as it reminds me of my grandmother.

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Posted by Stephanie Hamling on 09/01/2011 at 10:59 AM

I ate there Sunday.

It was pretty good, but I think The Root's burger and fries are better, myself.
I had both kinds of fries, but I think they were off a truck (despite a supposedly better potato).

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Posted by hillbillypharmacist on 09/01/2011 at 11:15 AM

Creekstone Beef... that'll teach me to write a burger story when I'm tired. It's good stuff.

And The Root is on my list. I've heard nothing but good.

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Posted by Kat Robinson on 09/01/2011 at 11:27 AM

I was very excited about going, so headed way on out there on Monday to find out...they were closed. Way to kill all that buzz from the weekend.

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Posted by sammy on 09/01/2011 at 2:08 PM

I went there last night, and I thought it was great. I had the veggie burger, and it's hands down the best in town. My partner had the turkey burger and really loved that they used the white turkey meat and managed to give it a lot of moisture and flavor. And, I've been dying for a place in town where you can get a well-crafted cocktail. Capitol B&G has been out there on their own pretty much - unless I'm missing something. Loved the drinks. We'll definitely return soon.

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Posted by oh, come on on 09/01/2011 at 3:14 PM

You should go to the Mammoth Orange in Redfield next! My wife and I almost went to the Big Orange or David's last weekend,but both places were PACKED. We "settled" for Five Guys. Actually,the first time we drove by Big Orange NOBODY was in there which scared us off. I guess it was just a lull because they were slammed later that afternoon.

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Posted by AllenK on 09/01/2011 at 4:25 PM

Creekstone Beef is good stuff. I don't know much about it other than it's what my three favorite Little Rock burger joints--Big Orange, The House in Hillcrest, and the Capital Bar and Grill--all serve. It's probably free range and hormone-free and all that jazz, but really all I know is its always juicy, tender, delicious, and cooks beautifully.

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Posted by Heights Observer on 09/02/2011 at 2:04 PM

I just checked the menu on their website the burgers are indeed hormone free, antibiotics free, and the cows weren't all caged up; sounds great to me. I wish more restaurants used this sort of meat, even as an option. I don't mind paying more for it.

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Posted by SocialistArkie on 09/02/2011 at 3:02 PM

The Faded Rose has been using Creekstone Beef for quite some time. I'm sure there are a number of others in town that use it as well.

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Posted by luv2eat on 09/03/2011 at 2:52 PM

You definitely get your money's worth at Big Orange. A good friend and I went Friday night. They were, as expected, busy but we only had about a 15 minute wait and it didn't take long at all to get our food. I didn't like my burger as much as the ones at Purple Cow but my friend LOVED their veggie burger. I ordered fries along with my burger and couldn't even finish a fourth of them. They were okay, a bit limp for my taste but I definitely got a lot for my money. I felt guilty wasting the fries but I was simply stuffed from my burger.

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Posted by SocialistArkie on 09/04/2011 at 3:17 PM

Just returned from Big Orange and I believe I had a religious experience! It was a-may-zing. Had the smokey BBQ burger and actually got it medium rare. The fries were excellent and I can't wait to go back.

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Posted by historian on 09/10/2011 at 2:29 PM
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