Friday, July 27, 2012

At Red Door, osso bucco is king

Posted By on Fri, Jul 27, 2012 at 1:18 PM

image

I'm not one much for mixing theology with food, but if there's any animal on earth that I'd consider good evidence of a benevolent Creator who loves and cares for us, it has to be the pig. No other animal can come close in the variety of preparations, from cured ham and bacon to fried pork chops and pulled pork (which is the highest, best form of barbecue). From "the other white meat" ad campaigns that tout pork as health food to the current foodie trend of putting bacon in just about everything, pork is more popular than ever before, and after some very extensive field research, I've found what might be the best pork dish in Little Rock: the Pork Osso Bucco at Red Door.

Now the purists out there might already be fuming, because a traditional osso bucco has nothing to do with pork whatsoever — it's a dish made by braising a tough piece of veal shank with vegetables until the meat becomes tender. But "osso bucco" simply means "bone with a hole" in Italian, and the pork shank that Red Door substitutes in their version of the dish not only qualifies, it takes the dish to an entirely better place than the classic veal. The portion of meat at Red Door is enormous, fork tender and glazed with a rich and savory reduction of veal and mushroom stock. The meat has the perfect texture, with a firm exterior that has a deep brown color and good flavor from the initial searing to a juicy and deeply flavored interior that falls from the bone as the result of long braising. The final result is a chunk of on-the-bone goodness that is sure to awaken the primal urges of any red-blooded carnivore.

Balancing the strongly flavored pork are two green sides, haricots verts and grilled asparagus. The asparagus is soft without being mushy, and the dusting of freshly grated Parmesan cheese makes for a nice savory flavor accent to the slightly bitter vegetable. The green beans are cooked in the classic French style, briefly blanched in boiling water and then shocked in ice water to maintain their color, then sauteed in butter until just heated through. The result is a bean that is far more fresh tasting and colorful than the classic Southern method of overcooking green beans until they achieve a state of leathery green mush. The vegetables are the perfect counterpoint to the pork, and taken as a whole make for an incredible dining experience, and while it's not the usual way one finds pork prepared in Arkansas, it certainly is one of the best.

Red Door is located at 3701 Old Cantrell Road, and they serve dinner daily.

Tags: , ,

Favorite

Speaking of Red Door, Reviews

Comments (5)

Showing 1-5 of 5

Add a comment

 
Subscribe to this thread:
Showing 1-5 of 5

Add a comment

More by Michael Roberts

  • Arkansas Times Recommends: The Think Edition

    Arkansas Times Recommends is a series in which Times staff members (or whoever happens to be around at the time) highlight things we've been enjoying this week. In anticipation of Arkansas Times' Festival of Ideas this Saturday at the Arkansas Regional Innovation Hub, we recommend things that make us think.
    • Sep 23, 2016
  • When it comes to pub grub, Flyway soars

    North Little Rock makes its bid for superior pub eating with Flyway Brewing.
    • Sep 13, 2016
  • The dream of the 90s is alive with Pepsi

    Sate your nostalgia for the sodas of yesteryear with the relaunch of Crystal Pepsi.
    • Aug 31, 2016
  • More »

Readers also liked…

  • We can do better, Little Rock

    The Friday Five open line is here, and we're talking restaurant sales numbers. You can talk about whatever you'd like.
    • Feb 20, 2015
  • Pine Bluff's Sno-White Grill to close

    A Pine Bluff institution announces that it will close.
    • Feb 6, 2015
  • A love letter to the dairy bar

    Nothing better for us than a dairy bar burger. Or a dairy bar chili dog. Or a dairy bar anything.
    • Feb 19, 2015

Most Shared

  • Who's harming women?

    Attorney General Leslie Rutledge is an Arkansas Republican. Thus, like the governor and the Republican-majority legislature, she intends to do everything she can to deny women comprehensive medical care, particularly abortion.
  • New normal

    No two presidential candidates since polling began have run up negatives as massive as those of Donald Trump and Hillary Clinton, who yet won their parties' nominations easily. "What gives?" may be the biggest political mystery in history.
  • Additional rape charges filed against Conway doctor

    Special Prosecutor Jason Barrett has added 11 more victims to two others alleging rape by Dr. Robert Rook of Conway.
  • Big Dam Bridge 100 brings big damn complaint about celebrity rider Hincapie

    The Big Dam Bridge 100 is this weekend and one dedicated biker isn't happy about a celebrity rider, admitted doper George Hincapie.
  • Delta Cultural Center new director: Prophet Kyle T. Miller

    Kyle T. Miller, who describes himself as a "licensed and ordained prophet" and says he has been "prophesying and interpreting dreams for almost 15 years," has been named the director of the Delta Cultural Center at Helena.

Blogroll

 

© 2016 Arkansas Times | 201 East Markham, Suite 200, Little Rock, AR 72201
Powered by Foundation