Border Cantos is a timely, new and free exhibit now on view at Crystal Bridges.
Milford Track is deceptive. To the naked eye, it appears to be a small, commonplace sandwich and lunch counter, designed to provide second-rate food to the busy corporate types confined by the executive building which houses this small café. You’d expect Milford Track to serve pre-packaged, shrink-wrapped food, with a handful of mediocre snacks, the kind of place that could easily operate with a microwave and a toaster and still draw in numerous hurried businesspeople on their short lunch break. But in this case, nothing could be further from the truth. Milford Track is making a large percentage of their menu from scratch and cooking meals to-order, all within the tiny confines of their basement café. Milford Track is no run-of-the-mill operation.
They’ve got a list of sandwich standards: chicken avocado club, turkey croissant, blackened chicken, roast beef, or a classic BLT. When possible (and quite often) these are served on house-baked breads, with local, fresh ingredients when in season. Hefty burgers with bacon come with the disclaimer “not for the faint of appetite.” These things should are not to be overlooked, but what you must come to Milford Track for, the section of the menu that perhaps shines brightest, is their fresh pastas. These are not to be missed.
Milford’s pastas are made from scratch daily. They are straightforward, rustic, and incredibly flavorful. Each day, the simple mixture of unbleached flour, eggs, and salt are hand-mixed until the perfect consistency. The pasta dough is then blended with one of six freshly-prepared ingredient blends to add flavor: black olive, chili, cilantro, lemon-pepper, rosemary-basil, or spinach. Once run through a pasta maker, the pasta is cut into spaghetti-like ribbons and given a quick bath in boiling water until al dente, each plate is cooked to order. Diners then choose from a variety of light sauces such as black bean chili, cilantro pesto, alfredo, or pepper-garlic. These sauces are designed to merely complement the inherent flavors of the pasta, not overwhelm and mask the beautifully prepared centerpiece of the dish.
This is one hidden treasure worth searching for. Once found and tasted, you will be hard-pressed to stay away. Milford Track has been one of the greatest surprise success stories in my central Arkansas search for fabulous food; it will definitely be worth your time.
(So, how to find Milford Track: Opposite the Arkansas Heart Hospital runs Executive Center Drive. Along this road you’ll find a half dozen, large corporate office buildings. If you are driving west down Executive Center Dr., away from the hospital, you’ll see a small lake on your left and the “Searcy Bldg” at its edge. Park, walk around to the back of the Searcy Bldg (facing the lake) and you’ll find a patio with tables and chairs. Enter, you’ve found Milford Track. Enjoy)
Address is 10809 Executive Center Dr., Searcy Bldg, Plaza 2, Little Rock. 501-223-2257. milford-track.com