Switch to the mobile version of this page.

Arkansas Times

Eat Arkansas

Archives | RSS

« Loganberry, you're hot and you're c… | The Great Fast Food French Fry Show… »

Wednesday, January 16, 2013

Reviews Chi's Too can't quite break through

Posted by Michael Roberts on Wed, Jan 16, 2013 at 8:57 AM

JESS ROBERTS
Kung pao chicken

A few years ago, Chi's Too on Markham would have been perfectly acceptable Chinese take-out: it's quick, it's cheap, and while nobody would consider it gourmet, it's tasty enough. Unfortunately for Chi's, Little Rock has come a long way in terms of delicious Chinese that doesn't hit the pocketbook very hard. Midtown has Pei Wei, the P.F. Chang's spin-off that boasts ample portions in the $6-$10 range, and South University is home to the Chinese-food wonderland that is Mr. Chen's. Compared to these powerhouses, Chi's Too is just a distant also-ran, a throwback to a time when Chinese take-out was just a step above microwaving a TV dinner.

But all that's not to say that Chi's doesn't have its good points. First, the place will deliver to the surrounding neighborhood, and there are some nights where a drop-off in quality for convenience is an acceptable trade. The staff is generally quite friendly, and orders placed for pick-up or dine in arrive hot and fresh without much wait at all. As for the food...well, I don't want you all to get the wrong impression. Chi's food is perfectly fine. The pan-fried potstickers are tasty, if a touch soggy, and the kung pao chicken is savory and good nestled on its bed of fresh steamed broccoli. Less successful to me was the Sichuan beef, which lacked any sort of spice whatsoever. I understand that "Sichuan" is just a generic descriptive term in these parts, but I'd like to see a Chinese place in Arkansas actually do true Sichuan cuisine — the kind of pepper-laced deliciousness that burns to the point of numbness while exploding with flavor. Chi's version was a mild beef dish that only had a fresh crunch of onions to give it some pep.

All of this is not to say that Chi's should be avoided; it isn't nearly so bad as that. As a quick option for lunch, it's a perfect idea, and as I said before, the delivery option wins it a lot of points in my book. For something really excellent, though, there are just options that blow the place out of the water in terms of taste while coming in right at the same price point. Chi's Too was a place I really wanted to like (especially given its proximity to my house), but unless I'm feeling lazy I don't foresee myself heading to the place over other nearby options.

Chi's Too is located at 5110 W. Markham, and they are available for delivery from 11 a.m. - 2 p.m. and again from 5 p.m. - 9 p.m. Call 604-7777 to place your order.

Tags: Chi's Too, Chinese, take-out, delivery

        
Tweet
Share

Comments (2)

Showing 1-2 of 2

Add a comment

Subscribe to this thread:

By Email

With RSS

Showing 1-2 of 2

More by Michael Roberts

The Governor's Culinary Challenge: Who made the grade?

At the Governor's Culinary Challenge, a few chefs really brought their proverbial A-game, doling out some truly spectacular bites, but it was clear that a few of these culinary heavy-weights should rethink their strategy for next year. Here’s our breakdown of who made the grade and who fell a bit flat.
- by Daniel Walker and Michael Roberts
- May 7, 2013
The 2013 Jewish Food and Cultural Fest returns to the River Market

My favorite thing at the Jewish Festival (apart from that chopped liver) is the mammoth table of baked goods which takes up most of one side of the River Market Pavilion.
- by Michael Roberts
- Apr 16, 2013
More »