Wednesday, August 20, 2014

Another shot at The Fold

Posted By on Wed, Aug 20, 2014 at 8:34 AM

click to enlarge Steak Torta at The Fold - MICHAEL ROBERTS
  • Michael Roberts
  • Steak Torta at The Fold
It was just over a year ago that I reviewed The Fold for the Arkansas Times, and my opinion of the place at that time was rather tepid. But after recently eating some crow about Local Lime, a commenter told me to give the Riverdale taco joint another try — and I have to say, I'm glad I did. The Fold seems to have settled into its groove nicely, and some of the issues I remembered from my previous visit — slow service in particular — were nowhere to be seen. And since the restaurant has a restaurant month deal going on where they give you a free cheese dip with the purchase of a taco plate, we were already pretty happy with the place.

About that cheese dip — it's good. I love white cheese dip with just the right amount of spice, and The Fold's Habanero Queso was just my style. Creamy, smooth, and with a subtle heat that added punch without overpowering, we worked our way through the ample portion in no time. I love that the wife and I got it for free, but I would gladly pay $5 for this dip any time.

My wife got the three taco platter, and she was immediately enamored by the Cochinita Pibil (Pit Pork) and the Puerco Verde (another pork taco), and although the Tejas steak taco she got as her third choice was a little underwhelming due to the toughness of the beef, we both declared the The Fold's pork to be excellent — well-seasoned, tender, and quite juicy. 

I wanted to branch out from the taco part of the menu, so I ordered a Steak Torta, and I was rewarded with a massive sandwich of tasty steak, chimichurri, pickled onions and pico de gallo piled high on a perfectly toasted roll. Again, the steak was a little tough, but the flavor was on point. The bread was soft and chewy on the inside, but had a nice toasted crunch that I enjoyed. The voluminous toppings spilled from the sandwich onto the plate, making the whole experience a messy, decadent pleasure. 

I've always loved the atmosphere at The Fold — light and airy, with a funky decor fitting the space's past life as a service station. And while we still had a few issues — the tough steak and an utterly forgettable rice side dish — our overall meal was pretty fantastic. Service was excellent — I think at least three people asked us how we were doing during the meal, and our food and drinks came out very quickly. Final verdict? I've got to change my opinion once again from "skip it" to "put it on the rotation." We'll be back to The Fold, especially the next time I get a hankering for a torta.

Tags: , ,

Favorite

Speaking of The Fold, Reviews

Related Locations

Comments (3)

Showing 1-3 of 3

Add a comment

 
Subscribe to this thread:
Showing 1-3 of 3

Add a comment

More by Michael Roberts

Readers also liked…

  • In defense of Planned Parenthood and abortion rights

    An op-ed in today's New York Time by Katha Pollitt says what I've been struggling to say about the reaction to the attack on women's reproductive rights launched by means of the undercover videos made by anti-abortion activists.
    • Aug 5, 2015
  • Maddie's Place makes a believer out of a skeptic

    After a long hiatus, I return to Maddie's Place in Riverdale and find the food is a lot tastier than I remembered.
    • Aug 19, 2015
  • The Lemon Cakery is pure bliss

    In the eternal and often epic battle between "cake" and "pie," I normally come down on the pie side of things. The Lemon Cakery puts that rule to the test—deliciously.
    • Oct 1, 2015

Most Shared

  • Labor department director inappropriately expensed out-of-state trips, audit finds

    Jones was "Minority Outreach Coordinator" for Hutchinson's 2014 gubernatorial campaign. The governor first named him as policy director before placing him over the labor department instead in Jan. 2015, soon after taking office.
  • Rapert compares Bill Clinton to Orval Faubus

    Sen. Jason Rapert (R-Conway)  was on "Capitol View" on KARK, Channel 4, this morning, and among other things that will likely inspire you to yell at your computer screen, he said he expects someone in the legislature to file a bill to do ... something about changing the name of the Bill and Hillary Clinton National Airport.

Visit Arkansas

View Trumpeter Swans in Heber Springs

View Trumpeter Swans in Heber Springs

Magness Lake, in Heber Springs, is a magnet for swans

Most Viewed

  • Pantry's Bohm buys Hillcrest Artisan Meats

    Tomas Bohm, owner of Czech and German eateries The Pantry in West Little Rock and The Pantry Crest in Hillcrest, will take over the space now occupied by Hillcrest Artisan Meats at 2807 Kavanaugh Blvd. next year. Brandon Brown and his wife, Tara Protiva-Brown, will continue to operate H.A.M. until the end of the year; Bohm hopes to reopen under a new name sometime in February.

Most Recent Comments

Blogroll

 

© 2016 Arkansas Times | 201 East Markham, Suite 200, Little Rock, AR 72201
Powered by Foundation