Burgers

Wednesday, April 3, 2013

Wednesday, April 3, 2013 - 13:35:00

The Little Rock Burger Caucus names a winner...

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Perhaps no other food in history has spawned as much loyalty, opinion, and disagreement as the burger. Everyone—no matter how enthusiastic they are about food—has a favorite burger (except, maybe, vegetarians). Stand in a circle of passionate food lovers and forcefully declare some joint’s burger as “the best in the city,” and be prepared to receive everything from agreement and praise to scorn, distrust, or disgust. It’s no surprise that the burger attracts such a variety of viewpoints as the noble hamburger comes in such a wide assortment of preparations: thick, thin, cooked-through, medium-rare, high-end, or cheap and greasy. Of course, there’s really no objective means to unequivocally declare a particular burger or burger joint to be the best, but that hasn’t stopped many burger enthusiasts from trying.

Throughout March, one group of burger-adoring ruffians has attempted, by the most methodical and objective mean possible, to once-and-for-all determine the best burger in Little Rock. The Little Rock Burger Caucus was founded by Little Rock native, Joel DiPippa, in attempts to join people together through delightful food, merrymaking, and a bit of political repartee. I think DiPippa describes the Burger Caucus best when he offered this description:

The Burger Caucus is a loosely organized collection of ne’er-do-wells primarily with some political bend who meet every month at different locations to have burgers and engage in what can only be called jibber-jabber. A collection of politicians, reporters, wonks, and pundits gather in our quixotic quest to discover the best burger in the Little Rock and central Arkansas areas. If you like a dose of politics, but not political theatre, with your burgers, look us up.

The Caucus developed a bracket in which a smattering of Little Rock’s most beloved burgers and burger joints would be able to go toe-to-toe with each other through numerous rounds of voting. Winners would move on to the next round, facing new, tougher competitors, until finally a championship bout, between the two most cherished burgers in Little Rock, would determine “the best” burger in Little Rock. All initial nominations, and subsequent votes were kept within the confines of the esteemed circle of Burger Caucus members. Who ended up on top? Here’s how it went down:

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Tuesday, April 2, 2013

Tuesday, April 2, 2013 - 18:30:00

The most decadent burger on earth

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We've been known to toss around a few adjectives here on Eat Arkansas, but I'll admit that I had a tough time coming up with anything adequate to describe the burgers that my co-conspirator Dan Walker and I ate late last week at Little Rock's palace of carnivorous comestibles, Hillcrest Artisan Meats. Brandon and the gang down at H.A.M. pop up here fairly often, and there's a good reason for it: they're always coming up with something new and exciting to eat. From beef cheeks to hand pies, with a bit of brick-pressed prosciutto and pimento cheese between, the little charcuterie shop on Kavanaugh has earned their reputation for quality.

All of which brings me to the burger in question: start with a thick, juicy slab of Ratchford Farms beef, lean and full of flavor, cooked to the perfect medium, then add fresh greens, sweet onions, ripe tomatoes, cloth-bound cheddar and savory aioli. Sounds good, right? Well, like the man said: "But wait, there's more." Top that burger patty with a thick slab of perfectly seared foie gras, the fatty duck liver prized for its delicate flavor and succulent texture — and the perfect luscious, earthy counterpart to the lean grass-fed beef. Then up the ante yet again by adding three paper-thin slices of jamón ibérico, the unctuous Spanish acorn-fed ham considered to be the best in the world. Serve the entire thing on a challah roll, and be prepared to have your mind blown.

This hamburger is the result of animals that were raised with care — beef that was grass-fed, ducks that live cage-free and have a longer life expectancy than most farm ducks, and ham that comes from free range pigs that are fed only the finest food. It's the result of farmers who know how to care for their livestock, insuring that their final products are of the highest, most delicate and delicious quality. It's the product of processors that understand how to bring food to market with skill and artistry. And it's about a local food seller who knows how to take these quality ingredients and arrange them in a way that brings joy to whomever has the privilege to eat them. This is a simple hamburger, elevated into something that goes beyond "gourmet" and becomes a true food experience. The play of flavor and texture, sight and scent is something that I'll remember for years to come. And the beauty of it all is this: if enough of you ask him, I'll guarantee that Brandon will do this all again, for each of us.

Last Friday, for about thirty minutes, the greatest, most decadent hamburgers on God's green earth were right here in Little Rock. Then Daniel Walker and I ate them.

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Tuesday, February 26, 2013

Tuesday, February 26, 2013 - 10:05:34

Classically cool eats at Asher Dairy Bar

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I have very few reasons to revisit my past. Oversized JNCO jeans with embroidered images of drooling, schizophrenic jesters juggling dice, the ear bleed inducing sounds of Limp Bizkit, or a wizard form of David Bowie prancing around wearing spandex in The Labyrinth? No thanks, think I’ll pass. However, at times living in the past is not always a bad thing, a lesson I was recently schooled on by the fine folks at Asher Dairy Bar. On the outside, this Col. Glenn fixture may not be much to look at anymore, merely a shadow of its former self…inside, not much has seemed to have changed either. Clearly, the place has lived through many years of growth and change within the community, yet Asher Dairy Bar feels relatively untouched. Luckily, the food and shakes feel and taste as classic as ever—flavor, attentive and friendly service, and prices even your grandparents would be pleased with will never fall out of fashion.

Let’s get one thing straight, other than milkshakes, you’re probably going to Asher Dairy Bar for a burger. Sure, there’s a number of other available menu items, which you may be inclined to venture towards from time to time. But when you’re craving a thin-patty, grease ball of a burger—the kind that leaves you constantly checking over your shoulder to make sure your cardiologist doesn’t catch you in the sinful, forbidden act—Asher Dairy Bar is your place.

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In all honesty, the burger offerings on Asher’s menu are a tad confusing. There’s the regular burger, the jumbo burger, the regular double burger, the jumbo double burger, the “over the hill” burger, and the “over the hill” double burger. If you’ve got 20 minutes for them to explain the whole menu, you may begin to get to the bottom of it all, but allow me to simplify: get the regular double cheeseburger.

For some reason, the regular-sized, double cheese burger seems to really hit that sweet spot of proper beef to grease proportions, adequate cheese coverage, and proper consistency and texture despite being, basically, a well-done burger. They’re thin, about an 1/8th of a pound each, but remain juicy and tender due to their lovely fatty properties. The cheese is generously portioned and the bun is soft, with a slightly toasted crisp to one side. It’s a cheeseburger seen a million times, in a million places…but it’s done right here. And at $3.19, no one is complaining about its rather commonplace components.

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You could easily pass up on the fries, they’re rather underseasoned and clearly from pre-bagged, frozen potatoes. You’re better off going with the tater tots, they’re sufficiently hot and crispy and go down well after a quick swim in ketchup.

Asher Dairy Bar boasts a sizable breakfast menu that includes expected diner classics such as biscuits and gravy, French toast, omelets, and pancakes. Their self-proclaimed “famous” breakfast toaster sandwich is substantial and enough to keep an average stomach fulfilled for a good six hours. Two thick slices of Texas toast, grilled on the flat-top, two eggs, melted American cheese, and your choice of sausage, bacon, or ham. They’re not winning any Beard awards for this thing but it’s the fast, greasy comfort food you’d expect from a place of this sort. It will fill you up, and it’s rather tasty.

There’s roughly ten million burger joints in Little Rock alone…maybe a slight exaggeration, but it sometimes feels that way. But you can’t fault Asher Dairy Bar for maintaining a traditional diner/drive-in culture in our city. It’s without frills, no bells and whistles…but their prices are low enough to dispel any desire for more posh surroundings. There’s no farm-fresh fried duck eggs, truffle oil, or foie gras topping their burgers, but sometimes you just want a cheap thrill—Asher Dairy Bar’s got that an more.

(Asher Dairy Bar is located at 7105 Colonel Glenn Rd., Little Rock. 501-562-1085)

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Friday, January 4, 2013

Friday, January 4, 2013 - 14:29:00

Big Orange heading to Midtown

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  • Via Big Orange's Facebook page
  • Big Orange special steak and potato burger

For all those burger-lovers who live in downtown or midtown to whom driving out to the Promenade at Chenal feels like driving to Conway, good news: Big Orange, the immensely popular West Little Rock burger joint, is expanding to the east. John Beachboard, a partner, alongside Scott McGehee and Herren Hickingbotham, of a burgeoning restaurant group that also includes Local Lime and ZaZa (which Beachboard and McGehee own alone), confirms that the long negotiations over space along Markham and University (which we first reported on back in July 2012) have concluded. A second Big Orange is slated in the former space of Relax the Back in the open air shopping complex Midtowne Little Rock sometime early this summer.

Beachboard said the Midtowne location would have more seating than the West Little Rock location with a similar all-weather patio set-up as Local Lime. They'll aim for a family friendly vibe, but, Beachboard said, they're hoping to have a vibrant bar crowd, too. To that end, they'll have 16 to 20 speciality beers on tap, and they hope to be the first restaurant in the state to offer wine on draft, casks of house red and house white that're changed constantly (draft wine is more eco friendly and fresher, according to Beachboard; it's also really trendy).

John's brother, Matt Beachboard, currently overseeing operations at the West Little Rock Big Orange, will likely take on management of both restaurants, John Beachboard said. In full disclosure, Matt Beachboard is my brother-in-law.

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Tuesday, October 16, 2012

Tuesday, October 16, 2012 - 13:50:09

A burger break at The House

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It was a hectic morning, the kind of morning where you are lucky if you even get out the door with matching socks. This day, breakfast was, unfortunately, lost in the shuffle. I jumped in my car and zipped off to work with nary a Pop-Tart in hand to munch on. By the time lunch came rolling around, the tummy grumblies were getting the best of me…I needed something to make up for lost calories. Suddenly, I developed a brilliant plan—include those missed breakfast items with my lunch order. Burgers were suggested by a coworker. Yes, that would do. A burger with bacon, egg, and cheese? Perfect. I had a few minutes to make a quick pick-up from any number of restaurants in the area, and not yet having tasted the fruits of The House in Hillcrest, I decided to drop in for a quick bite.

I phoned in my order, which consisted of a bacon, egg, and cheese burger with sweet potato fries. I emphasized a couple things to the gentleman receiving my wishes, the burger needed to be pink in the center, ideally cooked to a nice, juicy medium. No overcooked beef, I didn’t care if it was still mooing. So long as it was pink, I’d be happy. Second, I’d like the egg runny…like, getting-all-over-my-hands runny. Not too much to ask, right?

The end result was a mixed bag of pleasantries and pities. First, the honorable aspects of the House burger deserve recognition. The bun is beautifully done. No surprise, they source their feather-soft brioche from Boulevard Bread (the same bun you’ll find supporting the fine burgers at the Root Café, of which I have previously professed my love with a nearly-excessive number of superlatives). The golden, lightly-buttered brioche does a quick stint on the griddle and shows up to the party in fine form. If I could bring a slightly larger version of one of these buns home, I’d be inclined to use it for a pillow while sleeping at night. Other positive notes: the vegetables were crisp, bright, and tasty. The smear of house-made mayo, while in slight excess, was appropriately tangy, rich, and herbaceous. It made the burger rather sloppy, unwieldy, and difficult to handle, but it was still a welcome addition.

The negatives. First off, there was no bacon, which, as I mentioned, played a key role in my breakfast-on-burger fantasy. I didn’t notice this flub until I had already left the restaurant with my to-go order in hand and had no time to turn back. Now remember, I had two inner-diva-invoking requests…pink burger, runny egg. Both were a disappointment. The beef was nothing but a dull gray throughout. Not dry, per se, but lacking the gentle weep of rendered cow fat and intramuscular liquid I so desire in the ideal burger. The overdone egg remained flavorful, as even a hard yolk is a cholesterol-laden treasure, but the yolk ran less than a 1994 Nancy Kerrigan after figure skating practice. Maybe I’m splitting hairs here that others would sooner leave intact, but in a city like Little Rock , where burger options abound, you’re allowed to be selective. In the end, I was still pleased with The House’s burger, but it simply failed to wow me.

Lastly, the sweet potato fries deserve some mention. It is nearly impossible to forgo food comparison in certain situations and in this case, The House’s version immediately sparks comparison to Big Orange's near-legendary fries. The sweet potato fries are waffle-cut, similar to Big O’s, but are slightly thinner and larger. They are sprinkled with a healthy dose of course sea salt and arrive in a large, generous heap with each burger order. They are accompanied by The House’s own riff on curry ketchup, incorporating chunks of apricot rather than the mango made famous by their competitor. I occasionally feel that sweet potato fries are a bit gimmicky, but for some reason diners seem to nearly wet their pants with excitement whenever they are on the menu, like they are some exotic creation hand-delivered to mortals by the Greek gods all the way from the peak of Mt. Olympus. They’re only potatoes…and they are on menus everywhere. But sometimes, as in the case of The House’s fine specimens, I understand why they have become so incredibly popular.

With a few tweaks, or perhaps even on a different day, I could see The House burger exceeding my expectations. This day, it did not, but I will admit to being sufficiently satisfied with my order and no longer lamented my breakfast missed. I’ll return for another round at The House, but next time I may extend myself beyond the burger…the beer-battered fish and chips having caught my attention most last time I perused the menu.

The House
722 N. Palm St.
Little Rock

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Monday, September 10, 2012

Monday, September 10, 2012 - 10:19:27

Digging into a cheeseburger at The Root Cafe

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The formula for the perfect burger is surprisingly elusive. Though the basic components remain fairly standard between restaurants, the execution and end products often have dramatic differences. And with so many diverse iterations of this noble beast, a person could spend an entire lifetime trying to hunt down the ultimate burger experience. It is intriguing to think that the humble burger, an item nearly any backyard troll with a grill and a spatula can slap together, can warrant so much attention from the restaurant community at large. The simple fact is, our nation is completely infatuated with ground beef in a bun. I am no exception, as I, myself, cannot ignore the delightful siren’s song of the next restaurant touting “the best burger in town.” The burger is the epitome of comfort food. It will never go away, it will never fade out of favor…and if a restaurant is serving a notable rendition on its menu, you can be fairly certain that word will get out sooner rather than later. Such is the case with The Root Café, a precious gem of a restaurant in Little Rock ’s Southside Main St. neighborhood…a place serving food too fresh, too unique, and too delicious not to shout about.

The Root’s burger is the kind of dish that is difficult to perfectly capture in words. Suddenly, I find that the same old tired food descriptors seem inadequate when trying to portray a thing of such beauty. I could go on spouting out the usual adjectives…juicy, fresh, perfectly-cooked, luscious, rich, flavorful (all of which apply here)…you’ve heard them all before. But now I am finding it difficult to detail exactly what it is about the Root burger that really sings to me. Still, I shall attempt to capture in words what I really feel in my heart.

Perhaps, its splendor lies in its simplicity. There are no gimmicks here, no exotic cheeses from distant lands, and no beef from cows that have been oil-massaged and fed grapes while lounging in clover fields all day. Just honest, locally-sourced ingredients, utilized in perfect proportions, to create a literal thing of beauty. The pasture-raised beef comes from local farms. It’s 1/3 pound of pure bovine bliss. And thank the heavens, they can cook a burger right, medium, the only way a decent burger should be enjoyed. Joining the party: a thick slice of ripe red tomato, sweetly caramelized grilled white onion, thinly sliced house-made pickle, a mild, zesty mustard, and a creamy house mayo. The exceptional cheese is sourced from the local Daley Dairy, producers of the fine Honeysuckle Lane yellow cheddar. This melted cheese softly wraps around the thick, hot beef patty, gently cascading down its sides. Holding the entire team together is the Boulevard Bread bun…soft, lightly grilled, superb.

Its colors, its textures, its smell…all combine to form an edible masterpiece, worthy of its own pedestal in the Louvre. Beyond that, the flavors swirling around in each bite of this burger will leave an indelible impression on your mind, a memory that will likely be safely tucked away into some pleasurable recess of your mind, right next to the memories of your first kiss, your wedding day, or the birth of your first child. It’s not the kind of thing you keep silent about.

The Root Cafe
1500 S. Main
Little Rock

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Tuesday, September 4, 2012

Tuesday, September 4, 2012 - 09:59:47

David's Burgers vs. The Big Burger Chains

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As the fast-casual burger concepts continue to spread across the nation, Arkansas has certainly not been left in the dark. With the recent arrival of Mooyah out of Dallas along with the success of Virginia chain Five Guys, the days of being subjected to The King or The Clown for a quick burger are no more. Additionally, with the expansion of the Southern California sensation, In-N-Out, to Texas last May, with more locations springing up regularly, it seems only a matter of time until Arkansas will gain its very own “Animal Style” outlet. I was in Dallas last year when the In-N-Out burger bomb hit the city, and if you thought people were going nuts for Chipotle, just wait until you see the burger freaks who camp out for a Double-Double. I expect Arkansas will see other burgeoning national and regional burger chains as well in the not-so-distant future, such as Denver’s Smashburger.

What draws patrons to these popular burger establishments is the promise of fresh food, made to order menus, and a comfortable atmosphere without the need to drop a hefty chunk of change on a decent meal. But do the local guys sometimes get lost in the shuffle? Many of the small, locally owned shops are putting out excellent food with the consistency and efficiency you would expect from the most well-oiled chain operations.

One such joint that should never be discounted is David’s Burgers. Walking into the Little Rock location of David’s for the first time, it’s difficult not to make comparisons to some of the other fast-casual burger chains. The color schemes, the bright and cheery young employees, the honest, straight-forward menu, even the diverse but happy clientele…it’s easy to picture this place as a very successful national chain. However, I feel David’s easily rises above the doldrums of chainhood. They are making burgers not only efficiently and at a great value, they are producing a product that exceeds the big chains in flavor and freshness, and doing it with the heart and soul of a locally-owned business.

The freshness of David’s beef should never be in question. They are so transparent in their handling and processing of the ground beef that finds its way between your buns, it makes you wonder what’s going on at the other places behind closed doors. David’s proudly displays all their beef, hand-cut and ground in house, in a brightly lit display for all to see as they enter the restaurant. The entire cooking process occurs in full view of the customers. Your likely to see a young man or woman stationed behind a blazing hot flat-top in the center of the kitchen, stoically slapping large balls of bright red ground beef across the hot metal, steam billowing up into his or her face like an angry geyser waiting to blow. Yet, I could not help but watch in admiration, thankful to these young burger warriors for taking time out from their night to provide me with my guilty pleasure. It gives me hope for this country.

And the taste? Excellent. I’m not going to say this is the greatest burger I’ve ever eaten in my life. But I will say it trumps any of the aforementioned chains with ease. The beef is cooked exactly how a thin, flat-top burger should be cooked, and has just the right fat to protein ratio. The beef remains tender and juicy, without being saturated with grease. The fries are not to be overlooked either…crispy, golden exterior and tender interior, and lots of them to each order. They make In-N-Out’s fries seem more like Styrofoam than potatoes (actually, that’s not very difficult to do).

Support the local guys. Arkansas is no stranger to chains, but we would all be better off if we could continue to see the homegrown businesses flourish a little more. There are swarms of brilliant, talented chefs, cooks, and bakers in this state and many of them simply need fertile soil in which to spread their culinary roots.

David's Burgers (2 locations):
101 S Bowman Rd, Little Rock -and- 201 Skyline Dr. #1100, Conway

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Friday, July 27, 2012

Friday, July 27, 2012 - 13:04:26

Datsaburger doesn't quite make it

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Pulling into the parking lot of Datsaburger, the relatively new faux-50s themed burger joint in Bryant, we asked ourselves if Central Arkansas really needed another place touting high-end burgers. Little Rock's burger scene is a crowded one, with several locally owned restaurants like Big Orange, the Root Cafe, and Arkansas Burger Company competing with nationally established chains for supremacy in the world of seared ground beef. Things are a little different down I-30 in Saline County, though, with the usual fast food suspects and big-box franchises making up the bulk of restaurant choices in Bryant, and so we were excited to see a new, locally-owned restaurant open up advertising burgers that their website describes as being made with "the best quality products" served up with "excellent customer service." The dining area, all black and white tile with chrome and red trim looked promising, if a little hokey.

Datsaburger is one of those "order at the counter" places, and the menus were large and easily visible. Deciding to let the place do what they claimed to do best, we ordered the Datsaburger ($4.59) with a slice of pepper jack cheese for another $0.65. And since Datsaburger's tagline is "Home of the Bottomless Basket of Fries," we went for the fries-and-a-drink upgrade ($3.49), making our total combo fairly reasonable for a mid-price burger place. Wanting to try some of the non-beef portions of the menu, we also ordered the Datsa Razorback Burger ($5.49), a pork burger covered in grilled onions and barbecue sauce. Our cashier handed us a couple of styrofoam cups and we headed over into the main seating area to take a look around.

The first thing that struck us about the dining room at Datsaburger was a decent sized toppings bar...that was barely filled with anything at all. Two stainless steel pans held some of the saddest, palest slices of tomato I've ever seen and a limp pile of shredded iceberg lettuce that was light green and flecked with beige. A few other smaller containers contained jalapenos, pickles, raw onion, and a couple of bottles of mustard and mayonnaise — and we were skeptical that the swiftly melting ice in the bar could keep these ingredients cold enough to stay fresh. We stared at this sad state of affairs for some time, feeling the growing sense of dismay that comes when you know you're in for far less than you bargained for.

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Monday, July 23, 2012

Monday, July 23, 2012 - 09:15:00

Capital Bar and Grill's burger misses where it matters most

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Nearly every food lover I know is searching for the best burger in their city. I am no different -- I am completely smitten with beef between two buns. No matter how often I try to stray from non-burger items on an unfamiliar menu, I always seem to find myself overcome with curiosity and order the burger, thinking that, perhaps, this could be that hidden gem, the best undiscovered burger in the city.

The Capital Bar & Grill’s burger has been touted as one of the best in Little Rock, and with food buzz like that floating around, it was only natural that I put such claims to the test. I always have respect for a place that has the guts to name their spin on this American classic, “The Burger.” Perhaps they are claiming that this is “the” burger to end all burgers, and that all other burgers best step aside while “the” burger is making its way to the table. Regardless, I accept their audacity. I enjoy a little ego in my meals.

The problem is, CBG’s burger has a lot of growing up to do before it should ever be proclaimed “best burger.” There is potential, but some serious errors need to be addressed before it steps in that arena again.

First, let’s point out the successful elements of “The Burger.” As I ordered mine with bacon and pimento cheese (as was recommended to me), I will speak to those elements first. The bacon is spot on. Cured in house, it comes out sizzling, smoky, and crispy. Perfect bacon is a thing of beauty that, unfortunately, is a rare treat, often too soggy and limp or conversely, burnt to a sad, dry strip of forsaken pig. Not at CBG, they are doing bacon justice. Next, the pimento cheese, which CBG also serves in appetizer form alongside soda crackers and celery. The pimento, tangy and sharp, added a nice creamy richness to the overall experience. However, its flavor was overshadowed and underwhelming alongside some of the burger's weaker elements.

Undoubtedly (and perhaps obviously), the most important element of a great burger is the beef. Here is where CBG takes a nose dive. At first glance alone, I could tell this thing was overcooked, with far too much crispy black char for any self-respecting piece of beef. I asked that mine be cooked to medium, yet there was not a hint of pink on the interior, simply the lifeless, sullen gray of overdone beef. Dry and dull, there was not a drop of burger juice to be found within this hopeless slab of cow. The texture was off-putting as well, reminiscent of the horrific frozen, value-brand, hockey-puck burgers one might pick up from your grocer’s freezer aisle. I wish I could speak better of the bun, but alas, I cannot. Plain and dry, it was nothing remarkable and quite forgettable.

The search for Little Rock’s best burger certainly does not end at the Capital Hotel. I am confident that with a few upgrades, CBG could produce a worthy contender, but for now, I’ve got at least a dozen places I’d recommend before you go dropping fifteen bones on this thing. Hey, at least the fries are good.

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Tuesday, July 17, 2012

Tuesday, July 17, 2012 - 15:39:12

Big Orange goes gluten free

Vegan Falafel Lentil burger on gluten free bun
  • Big Orange Facebook page
  • Vegan Falafel Lentil burger on gluten free bun

Way out west in the land of upscale strip malls, there's a magical respite called Big Orange. It's the stuff of lore — thick juicy patties, truffle oil fries and succulent milkshakes — heralded by herbivores and carnivores alike. And now, with the introduction of a new bun that essentially transforms the entire menu to gluten-free, Big Orange is inviting celiacs to join the party. Tonight Big Orange will debut Dempsey Bakery's Hearty Italian buns, made of rice flour, potato starch, olive oil, millet, flax, maple syrup and arrowroot. For an additional $1.25, any Dempsy burger can go gluten-free, and most veggie burgers can go vegan, since it's been the bun holding them back all along. (Not to denigrate the fluffy, buttery house buns, you understand...) Fans of Dempsey Bakery, where all the offerings are gluten-free, may recognize the buns as a variation on the Hearty Italian baguette or loaf bread sold in-house. Matt Beachboard, the Big Orange manager, describes the bun as a gluten-free focaccia. Paula Dempsey, of Dempsey, said the bun is fluffy with a white bread texture, but it's not quite as large as the normal Big Orange bun. "In my experience, gluten-free people don't like a lot of bread," she explained.

Tonight the Big Orange cheese dip with corn tortillas is a featured appetizer, in honor of all things gluten-free. And if you are the first to upload a picture of yourself eating a gluten free burger to the Big Orange Facebook page, you win a $10 Big Orange gift-card. Happy wheat-shunning, folks!

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Friday, June 8, 2012

Friday, June 8, 2012 - 13:00:12

Quick lunch update on Dugan's Pub

The bleu cheese burger at Dugans Pub.
  • The bleu cheese burger at Dugan's Pub.

Big portions await the hungry lunch-seeker who finds his way to Dugan’s Pub. The bar and restaurant has become a staple in the River Market District on the strength of a pleasant patio, a relaxed atmosphere and ample portions (cheese “sticks?” No, those are cheese “logs.”) They also have a respectable pour of Guinness as well as a good selection of whiskeys – always a must for any place that bills itself as an Irish pub.

One highlight from a recent lunch at Dugan’s: a bleu cheese burger ($8) that was gigantic and satisfying, with a crunchy, perfect onion ring that begs the question: why don’t all burgers come with an onion ring standard? This one had crumbled bleu cheese on top, as opposed to the type that has the cheese mixed in with the ground beef. Once you’ve experienced crunchy, caramelized goodness of the latter style it’s hard to go back, but the Dugan’s version was still very good. It came with a side of bleu cheese dressing that proved unnecessary, given the generous portion of cheese already on the burger.

A zucchini grinder ($7.25) was a flavorful, surprisingly filling sandwich that would please vegetarians and omnivores alike.

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Friday, April 20, 2012

Friday, April 20, 2012 - 09:34:38

Mooyah open in Hot Springs, coming soon to LR

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We're big fans of the recent Central Arkansas influx of pick-your-toppings burger joints like Five Guys, Big Orange and David's Burgers. Given that, we're understandably stoked to hear that a new contender for the Big Burger crown is now open in Hot Springs. Their webpage says an outlet is coming soon to Little Rock.

Mooyah burgers is a Texas-based chain with locations in five states. As seen on Mooyah's menu, burger lovers can choose from white or wheat bun, beef/turkey/veggie patty, a raft of fresh toppings and regular or sweet potato fries.

Their Hot Springs outlet is at 3954 Central Ave., Suite G in the Dogwood Landing Shopping Center — open 11 a.m. to 10 p.m. 7 days a week. Phone: (501)520-5001. We'll give you a full update on whether Mooyah delivers the boo-yah once we get a chance to make the jaunt to Hot Springs.

UPDATE: We just got off the phone with Scott Strzelecki, the franchise agent who is developing the Mooyah outlets in Arkansas.

Strzelecki said the plan is to open up Mooyah franchises all over Arkansas. While the concept is similar to Five Guys Burgers, Strzelecki said, it's a more family-friendly experience, with the Little Rock location featuring a wall which kids are encouraged to write on. Each outlet bakes their own buns in house, with diners ordering by selecting their toppings from a paper "menu tree."

Strzelecki said the Little Rock store, to be located in a former Blue Coast Burrito location at 14810 Cantrell, is in the process of being readied, and should be open sometime in late May or early June.

Monday, March 5, 2012

Monday, March 5, 2012 - 16:24:47

Vegging out at The House

Thai Green Curry

Most Eat Arkansas readers are familiar with The House, a two-story house turned gastropub, tucked away on a Hillcrest side-street. There are a few menu pluses, such as suggested entree/drink pairings and a handful of veg/vegan options, but I’d been warned that The House suffers from unreliable service.

Last week a friend and I had dinner at the The House, on one of those perfect first warm evenings promising spring, and of course, the place was slammed. We wanted patio seating, but we ended up inside — which was OK. The place is too dark and plain to be considered inviting, but there is a brooding, artsy vibe that we could get down with. There also seemed to be only one waiter, and every table was full. His (forgivable, due to crowd capacity?) list of offenses veered from slightly annoying (staggered food delivery, having to mimic an air traffic controller just to get silverware, no water or wine refills) to all-out ridiculous (he dumped our fries on the table, scooped them back on the plate with his hand and said, ‘I’ll get you some more’ — right before disappearing for the rest of the evening).

We split the Thai Green Curry and the Baked Mac and Cheese, the latter of which is supposed to come with a choice of fries. Oh, excuse me, a choice of sides — which must mean fries, since we were never asked our preference and our dish came out with the aforementioned fries…because you know, who would prefer a side salad to starch on starch?

At least the Mac and Cheese was comforting. It was made to order in an individual baking dish, which saved it from becoming a congealed-cheese casualty of hours under a warming light. What we got: a textural feast of chewy elbow noodles, heavy garlic flavor, creamy mornay (a white cheese sauce) and a perfect, crunchy ceiling of melted cheese and breadcrumb.

The kitchen split the Thai Green Curry into two bowls at our request — a surprise since the waiter acted as if we’d asked him to harness the moon, and we quickly suggested he just bring an extra bowl instead. On the menu, nine ingredients are listed for vegan Thai Green Curry (ten if you opt-in for chicken), and the dish definitely tasted decadent. The base was a creamy, citrus-flavored coconut milk, made subtly spicy and mildly sweet by the addition of ginger and basil.

The veg version is supposed to come with extra eggplant, but there was nothing generous about the tiny cubes in our bowls. We completely dug the plump, baby tomatoes, though — slightly cooked and not at all mushy, bursting open in the most satisfying way, flooding our mouths with warm, fresh juice. The curry was served with a smidgen of rice (less is better for me, in these cases — I want to taste the substance rather than the sustenance), a wedge of lime and a sprinkle of cilantro.

By the time we left, the dining room had cleared out substantially. Even so, someone (a bus boy?) tried to clear away a dish that I was obviously still working on.

The next day I called in a vegan burger and was given a choice of French fries or sweet potato fries. The place was transformed from the night before. The dining room was nearly deserted, my order was produced quickly, and the guy dealing with me was chatty and friendly. Maybe I should give dinner another shot?

Back to my veggie burger: the buns are made with eggs, and I wanted to sample the vegan option. So I had focacia bread instead, which was a little tough in the corners. But the veg patty was a moist, yummy, whole black bean and mashed lentils concoction. I also saw/tasted red peppers, barley and spinach. It had a thick, jaw-gratifying texture and even held together well. There were no fancy flavors — the burger just tasted wholesome and fresh, and that was enough. But if you want a kick, dress your burger with little of the super-spicy (Sriracha, I suspect) ketchup served with the sweet potato waffle fries. Perfection!

Baked Mac and Cheese

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Thursday, February 23, 2012

Thursday, February 23, 2012 - 10:15:00

Burger joint of the week: 4Square Gifts

WELL SEASONED:  The 4 Square Burger is garlicky.
  • Grav Weldon
  • WELL SEASONED: The 4 Square Burger is garlicky.

Burgers come in many shapes in sizes, from tiny sliders to the humongous Ed Walker's five pounder. Most are beef, though some vary into different grounds, such as the Buffalo burger at Jasper's Boardwalk Cafe. Some are served on sesame seed buns, others not. Many come with cheese or have it available.

4 Square Gifts in the River Market offers its own burger, complete with a slightly sourdough bun, Cheddar cheese, sweet caramelized red oniions, fresh green leaf lettuce and tomato and chipotle aioli. Yet there's no meat component.

My dining companion and I dropped in for lunch a short time back, eager to enjoy a meatless meal together and to explore the Arkansas gifts throughout the store. 4 Square is such an inviting place, with high ceilings and big windows, a nice place to share sandwiches while sitting on stools in the sunlight reflected off the Oppenheimer Hall across the way.

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Monday, February 20, 2012

Monday, February 20, 2012 - 13:53:32

Chenal Mickey D's groundbreaking tomorrow

MEGALO-MCDONALDS
  • MEGALO-McDONALD'S

They're breaking ground on a new McDonald's at The Promenade at Chenal tomorrow. While the news of yet another temple of cholesterol would normally sail right on into the circular file, we take note because the CEO of the construction company handing the build says the outlet will be "the nicest designed McDonald's in the State," with stained wood walls and modern decor. No firm completion date, but fast food joints tend to sprout like weeds these days, so we're betting on sooner rather than later.

The picture above is actually Ronald's place in Independence, Ohio, but in the land of McMansions out in West Little Rock, what will a McDonald's have to look like to impress? (then again, times are tough, maybe even for the purse-dog crowd) Most importantly: Will those chicken McNuggets taste better under a crystal chandelier than they do under a buzzing tube light? Stay tuned, foodies.

Full press release about the groundbreaking on the jump...

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  • Re: J. Gumbo's is a spicy success

    • @Cosmo

      Sorry, you misunderstood. My wife had previously sampled the items we ordered...the ones…

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  • Re: J. Gumbo's is a spicy success

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