Burgers: Eat Arkansas, Arkansas Times

The Little Rock Burger Caucus names a winner...

Daniel Walker — Wed, 03 Apr 2013 13:35:00 -0500

Perhaps no other food in history has spawned as much loyalty, opinion, and disagreement as the burger. Everyone—no matter how enthusiastic they are about food—has a favorite burger (except, maybe, vegetarians). Stand in a circle of passionate food lovers and forcefully declare some joint’s burger as “the best in the city,” and be prepared to receive everything from agreement and praise to scorn, distrust, or disgust. It’s no surprise that the burger attracts such a variety of viewpoints as the noble hamburger comes in such a wide assortment of preparations: thick, thin, cooked-through, medium-rare, high-end, or cheap and greasy. Of course, there’s really no objective means to unequivocally declare a particular burger or burger joint to be the best, but that hasn’t stopped many burger enthusiasts from trying.

Throughout March, one group of burger-adoring ruffians has attempted, by the most methodical and objective mean possible, to once-and-for-all determine the best burger in Little Rock. The Little Rock Burger Caucus was founded by Little Rock native, Joel DiPippa, in attempts to join people together through delightful food, merrymaking, and a bit of political repartee. I think DiPippa describes the Burger Caucus best when he offered this description:

The Burger Caucus is a loosely organized collection of ne’er-do-wells primarily with some political bend who meet every month at different locations to have burgers and engage in what can only be called jibber-jabber. A collection of politicians, reporters, wonks, and pundits gather in our quixotic quest to discover the best burger in the Little Rock and central Arkansas areas. If you like a dose of politics, but not political theatre, with your burgers, look us up.

The Caucus developed a bracket in which a smattering of Little Rock’s most beloved burgers and burger joints would be able to go toe-to-toe with each other through numerous rounds of voting. Winners would move on to the next round, facing new, tougher competitors, until finally a championship bout, between the two most cherished burgers in Little Rock, would determine “the best” burger in Little Rock. All initial nominations, and subsequent votes were kept within the confines of the esteemed circle of Burger Caucus members. Who ended up on top? Here’s how it went down:

After the initial nominations were tallied, an elite group of burgers took their slots in the initial voting rounds. Nominees included The House, The Root, Big Orange, David’s Burgers, The Food Truck, Midtown Billiards, The Town Pump, Cotham’s, Doe’s, Capital Bar and Grill, and White Water Kitchen, just to name a few. Over the course of a few weeks, these burgers were paired against each other and members of the caucus voted for their favorites. It was an utterly delicious bit of March madness.

Top seeds included the almost unanimously loved, Big Orange, the oft-praised burger from The Capital Bar and Grill, the greasy, classically constructed burgers hailing from the ancient, hallowed grill at The Box, and the local late-night legend offered by Midtown Billiards.

In the end, two burgers brushed away the competition with grace and style, moving swiftly and easily through the bracket and taking their slot in the championship bout. This final showdown included the Scott McGehee kingpin, Big Orange, and a somewhat unexpected (to me anyways) appearance by Midtown Billiards. In the end, however, it was the pasture-raised beef and the laundry list of inventive, exquisitely topped burgers (seriously, how can you resist white truffle, pecorino, and fig jam?) at Big Orange that claimed the prize.

I’m sure there are more than a few people, within the Burger Caucus and beyond, that are hotly anticipating the ability to devour a Big Orange burger without having to make the excruciatingly tiresome journey out to The Promenade. I’ve heard that Mr. DiPippa himself starts to become slightly jittery once he’s gone west of Mississippi and absolutely tremulous once west of the 430…unless he’s nursing an alcoholic beverage. The Midtown Big Orange cannot come soon enough. Cheers to Big Orange and thanks again to the Little Rock Burger Caucus for their continued efforts in promoting the best burgers in central Arkansas. You can join the Caucus at their next monthly meeting by keeping an eye on their Facebook page here.

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The most decadent burger on earth

Michael Roberts — Tue, 02 Apr 2013 18:30:00 -0500

We've been known to toss around a few adjectives here on Eat Arkansas, but I'll admit that I had a tough time coming up with anything adequate to describe the burgers that my co-conspirator Dan Walker and I ate late last week at Little Rock's palace of carnivorous comestibles, Hillcrest Artisan Meats. Brandon and the gang down at H.A.M. pop up here fairly often, and there's a good reason for it: they're always coming up with something new and exciting to eat. From beef cheeks to hand pies, with a bit of brick-pressed prosciutto and pimento cheese between, the little charcuterie shop on Kavanaugh has earned their reputation for quality.

All of which brings me to the burger in question: start with a thick, juicy slab of Ratchford Farms beef, lean and full of flavor, cooked to the perfect medium, then add fresh greens, sweet onions, ripe tomatoes, cloth-bound cheddar and savory aioli. Sounds good, right? Well, like the man said: "But wait, there's more." Top that burger patty with a thick slab of perfectly seared foie gras, the fatty duck liver prized for its delicate flavor and succulent texture — and the perfect luscious, earthy counterpart to the lean grass-fed beef. Then up the ante yet again by adding three paper-thin slices of jamón ibérico, the unctuous Spanish acorn-fed ham considered to be the best in the world. Serve the entire thing on a challah roll, and be prepared to have your mind blown.

This hamburger is the result of animals that were raised with care — beef that was grass-fed, ducks that live cage-free and have a longer life expectancy than most farm ducks, and ham that comes from free range pigs that are fed only the finest food. It's the result of farmers who know how to care for their livestock, insuring that their final products are of the highest, most delicate and delicious quality. It's the product of processors that understand how to bring food to market with skill and artistry. And it's about a local food seller who knows how to take these quality ingredients and arrange them in a way that brings joy to whomever has the privilege to eat them. This is a simple hamburger, elevated into something that goes beyond "gourmet" and becomes a true food experience. The play of flavor and texture, sight and scent is something that I'll remember for years to come. And the beauty of it all is this: if enough of you ask him, I'll guarantee that Brandon will do this all again, for each of us.

Last Friday, for about thirty minutes, the greatest, most decadent hamburgers on God's green earth were right here in Little Rock. Then Daniel Walker and I ate them.

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Classically cool eats at Asher Dairy Bar

Daniel Walker — Tue, 26 Feb 2013 10:05:34 -0600

I have very few reasons to revisit my past. Oversized JNCO jeans with embroidered images of drooling, schizophrenic jesters juggling dice, the ear bleed inducing sounds of Limp Bizkit, or a wizard form of David Bowie prancing around wearing spandex in The Labyrinth? No thanks, think I’ll pass. However, at times living in the past is not always a bad thing, a lesson I was recently schooled on by the fine folks at Asher Dairy Bar. On the outside, this Col. Glenn fixture may not be much to look at anymore, merely a shadow of its former self…inside, not much has seemed to have changed either. Clearly, the place has lived through many years of growth and change within the community, yet Asher Dairy Bar feels relatively untouched. Luckily, the food and shakes feel and taste as classic as ever—flavor, attentive and friendly service, and prices even your grandparents would be pleased with will never fall out of fashion.

Let’s get one thing straight, other than milkshakes, you’re probably going to Asher Dairy Bar for a burger. Sure, there’s a number of other available menu items, which you may be inclined to venture towards from time to time. But when you’re craving a thin-patty, grease ball of a burger—the kind that leaves you constantly checking over your shoulder to make sure your cardiologist doesn’t catch you in the sinful, forbidden act—Asher Dairy Bar is your place.

In all honesty, the burger offerings on Asher’s menu are a tad confusing. There’s the regular burger, the jumbo burger, the regular double burger, the jumbo double burger, the “over the hill” burger, and the “over the hill” double burger. If you’ve got 20 minutes for them to explain the whole menu, you may begin to get to the bottom of it all, but allow me to simplify: get the regular double cheeseburger.

For some reason, the regular-sized, double cheese burger seems to really hit that sweet spot of proper beef to grease proportions, adequate cheese coverage, and proper consistency and texture despite being, basically, a well-done burger. They’re thin, about an 1/8th of a pound each, but remain juicy and tender due to their lovely fatty properties. The cheese is generously portioned and the bun is soft, with a slightly toasted crisp to one side. It’s a cheeseburger seen a million times, in a million places…but it’s done right here. And at $3.19, no one is complaining about its rather commonplace components.

You could easily pass up on the fries, they’re rather underseasoned and clearly from pre-bagged, frozen potatoes. You’re better off going with the tater tots, they’re sufficiently hot and crispy and go down well after a quick swim in ketchup.

Asher Dairy Bar boasts a sizable breakfast menu that includes expected diner classics such as biscuits and gravy, French toast, omelets, and pancakes. Their self-proclaimed “famous” breakfast toaster sandwich is substantial and enough to keep an average stomach fulfilled for a good six hours. Two thick slices of Texas toast, grilled on the flat-top, two eggs, melted American cheese, and your choice of sausage, bacon, or ham. They’re not winning any Beard awards for this thing but it’s the fast, greasy comfort food you’d expect from a place of this sort. It will fill you up, and it’s rather tasty.

There’s roughly ten million burger joints in Little Rock alone…maybe a slight exaggeration, but it sometimes feels that way. But you can’t fault Asher Dairy Bar for maintaining a traditional diner/drive-in culture in our city. It’s without frills, no bells and whistles…but their prices are low enough to dispel any desire for more posh surroundings. There’s no farm-fresh fried duck eggs, truffle oil, or foie gras topping their burgers, but sometimes you just want a cheap thrill—Asher Dairy Bar’s got that an more.

(Asher Dairy Bar is located at 7105 Colonel Glenn Rd., Little Rock. 501-562-1085)

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Big Orange heading to Midtown

Lindsey Millar — Fri, 04 Jan 2013 14:29:00 -0600

For all those burger-lovers who live in downtown or midtown to whom driving out to the Promenade at Chenal feels like driving to Conway, good news: Big Orange, the immensely popular West Little Rock burger joint, is expanding to the east. John Beachboard, a partner, alongside Scott McGehee and Herren Hickingbotham, of a burgeoning restaurant group that also includes Local Lime and ZaZa (which Beachboard and McGehee own alone), confirms that the long negotiations over space along Markham and University (which we first reported on back in July 2012) have concluded. A second Big Orange is slated in the former space of Relax the Back in the open air shopping complex Midtowne Little Rock sometime early this summer.

Beachboard said the Midtowne location would have more seating than the West Little Rock location with a similar all-weather patio set-up as Local Lime. They'll aim for a family friendly vibe, but, Beachboard said, they're hoping to have a vibrant bar crowd, too. To that end, they'll have 16 to 20 speciality beers on tap, and they hope to be the first restaurant in the state to offer wine on draft, casks of house red and house white that're changed constantly (draft wine is more eco friendly and fresher, according to Beachboard; it's also really trendy).

John's brother, Matt Beachboard, currently overseeing operations at the West Little Rock Big Orange, will likely take on management of both restaurants, John Beachboard said. In full disclosure, Matt Beachboard is my brother-in-law.

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A burger break at The House

Daniel Walker — Tue, 16 Oct 2012 13:50:09 -0500

It was a hectic morning, the kind of morning where you are lucky if you even get out the door with matching socks. This day, breakfast was, unfortunately, lost in the shuffle. I jumped in my car and zipped off to work with nary a Pop-Tart in hand to munch on. By the time lunch came rolling around, the tummy grumblies were getting the best of me…I needed something to make up for lost calories. Suddenly, I developed a brilliant plan—include those missed breakfast items with my lunch order. Burgers were suggested by a coworker. Yes, that would do. A burger with bacon, egg, and cheese? Perfect. I had a few minutes to make a quick pick-up from any number of restaurants in the area, and not yet having tasted the fruits of The House in Hillcrest, I decided to drop in for a quick bite.

I phoned in my order, which consisted of a bacon, egg, and cheese burger with sweet potato fries. I emphasized a couple things to the gentleman receiving my wishes, the burger needed to be pink in the center, ideally cooked to a nice, juicy medium. No overcooked beef, I didn’t care if it was still mooing. So long as it was pink, I’d be happy. Second, I’d like the egg runny…like, getting-all-over-my-hands runny. Not too much to ask, right?

The end result was a mixed bag of pleasantries and pities. First, the honorable aspects of the House burger deserve recognition. The bun is beautifully done. No surprise, they source their feather-soft brioche from Boulevard Bread (the same bun you’ll find supporting the fine burgers at the Root Café, of which I have previously professed my love with a nearly-excessive number of superlatives). The golden, lightly-buttered brioche does a quick stint on the griddle and shows up to the party in fine form. If I could bring a slightly larger version of one of these buns home, I’d be inclined to use it for a pillow while sleeping at night. Other positive notes: the vegetables were crisp, bright, and tasty. The smear of house-made mayo, while in slight excess, was appropriately tangy, rich, and herbaceous. It made the burger rather sloppy, unwieldy, and difficult to handle, but it was still a welcome addition.

The negatives. First off, there was no bacon, which, as I mentioned, played a key role in my breakfast-on-burger fantasy. I didn’t notice this flub until I had already left the restaurant with my to-go order in hand and had no time to turn back. Now remember, I had two inner-diva-invoking requests…pink burger, runny egg. Both were a disappointment. The beef was nothing but a dull gray throughout. Not dry, per se, but lacking the gentle weep of rendered cow fat and intramuscular liquid I so desire in the ideal burger. The overdone egg remained flavorful, as even a hard yolk is a cholesterol-laden treasure, but the yolk ran less than a 1994 Nancy Kerrigan after figure skating practice. Maybe I’m splitting hairs here that others would sooner leave intact, but in a city like Little Rock , where burger options abound, you’re allowed to be selective. In the end, I was still pleased with The House’s burger, but it simply failed to wow me.

Lastly, the sweet potato fries deserve some mention. It is nearly impossible to forgo food comparison in certain situations and in this case, The House’s version immediately sparks comparison to Big Orange's near-legendary fries. The sweet potato fries are waffle-cut, similar to Big O’s, but are slightly thinner and larger. They are sprinkled with a healthy dose of course sea salt and arrive in a large, generous heap with each burger order. They are accompanied by The House’s own riff on curry ketchup, incorporating chunks of apricot rather than the mango made famous by their competitor. I occasionally feel that sweet potato fries are a bit gimmicky, but for some reason diners seem to nearly wet their pants with excitement whenever they are on the menu, like they are some exotic creation hand-delivered to mortals by the Greek gods all the way from the peak of Mt. Olympus. They’re only potatoes…and they are on menus everywhere. But sometimes, as in the case of The House’s fine specimens, I understand why they have become so incredibly popular.

With a few tweaks, or perhaps even on a different day, I could see The House burger exceeding my expectations. This day, it did not, but I will admit to being sufficiently satisfied with my order and no longer lamented my breakfast missed. I’ll return for another round at The House, but next time I may extend myself beyond the burger…the beer-battered fish and chips having caught my attention most last time I perused the menu.

The House
722 N. Palm St.
Little Rock

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Digging into a cheeseburger at The Root Cafe

Daniel Walker — Mon, 10 Sep 2012 10:19:27 -0500

The formula for the perfect burger is surprisingly elusive. Though the basic components remain fairly standard between restaurants, the execution and end products often have dramatic differences. And with so many diverse iterations of this noble beast, a person could spend an entire lifetime trying to hunt down the ultimate burger experience. It is intriguing to think that the humble burger, an item nearly any backyard troll with a grill and a spatula can slap together, can warrant so much attention from the restaurant community at large. The simple fact is, our nation is completely infatuated with ground beef in a bun. I am no exception, as I, myself, cannot ignore the delightful siren’s song of the next restaurant touting “the best burger in town.” The burger is the epitome of comfort food. It will never go away, it will never fade out of favor…and if a restaurant is serving a notable rendition on its menu, you can be fairly certain that word will get out sooner rather than later. Such is the case with The Root Café, a precious gem of a restaurant in Little Rock ’s Southside Main St. neighborhood…a place serving food too fresh, too unique, and too delicious not to shout about.

The Root’s burger is the kind of dish that is difficult to perfectly capture in words. Suddenly, I find that the same old tired food descriptors seem inadequate when trying to portray a thing of such beauty. I could go on spouting out the usual adjectives…juicy, fresh, perfectly-cooked, luscious, rich, flavorful (all of which apply here)…you’ve heard them all before. But now I am finding it difficult to detail exactly what it is about the Root burger that really sings to me. Still, I shall attempt to capture in words what I really feel in my heart.

Perhaps, its splendor lies in its simplicity. There are no gimmicks here, no exotic cheeses from distant lands, and no beef from cows that have been oil-massaged and fed grapes while lounging in clover fields all day. Just honest, locally-sourced ingredients, utilized in perfect proportions, to create a literal thing of beauty. The pasture-raised beef comes from local farms. It’s 1/3 pound of pure bovine bliss. And thank the heavens, they can cook a burger right, medium, the only way a decent burger should be enjoyed. Joining the party: a thick slice of ripe red tomato, sweetly caramelized grilled white onion, thinly sliced house-made pickle, a mild, zesty mustard, and a creamy house mayo. The exceptional cheese is sourced from the local Daley Dairy, producers of the fine Honeysuckle Lane yellow cheddar. This melted cheese softly wraps around the thick, hot beef patty, gently cascading down its sides. Holding the entire team together is the Boulevard Bread bun…soft, lightly grilled, superb.

Its colors, its textures, its smell…all combine to form an edible masterpiece, worthy of its own pedestal in the Louvre. Beyond that, the flavors swirling around in each bite of this burger will leave an indelible impression on your mind, a memory that will likely be safely tucked away into some pleasurable recess of your mind, right next to the memories of your first kiss, your wedding day, or the birth of your first child. It’s not the kind of thing you keep silent about.

The Root Cafe
1500 S. Main
Little Rock

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David's Burgers vs. The Big Burger Chains

Daniel Walker — Tue, 04 Sep 2012 09:59:47 -0500

As the fast-casual burger concepts continue to spread across the nation, Arkansas has certainly not been left in the dark. With the recent arrival of Mooyah out of Dallas along with the success of Virginia chain Five Guys, the days of being subjected to The King or The Clown for a quick burger are no more. Additionally, with the expansion of the Southern California sensation, In-N-Out, to Texas last May, with more locations springing up regularly, it seems only a matter of time until Arkansas will gain its very own “Animal Style” outlet. I was in Dallas last year when the In-N-Out burger bomb hit the city, and if you thought people were going nuts for Chipotle, just wait until you see the burger freaks who camp out for a Double-Double. I expect Arkansas will see other burgeoning national and regional burger chains as well in the not-so-distant future, such as Denver’s Smashburger.

What draws patrons to these popular burger establishments is the promise of fresh food, made to order menus, and a comfortable atmosphere without the need to drop a hefty chunk of change on a decent meal. But do the local guys sometimes get lost in the shuffle? Many of the small, locally owned shops are putting out excellent food with the consistency and efficiency you would expect from the most well-oiled chain operations.

One such joint that should never be discounted is David’s Burgers. Walking into the Little Rock location of David’s for the first time, it’s difficult not to make comparisons to some of the other fast-casual burger chains. The color schemes, the bright and cheery young employees, the honest, straight-forward menu, even the diverse but happy clientele…it’s easy to picture this place as a very successful national chain. However, I feel David’s easily rises above the doldrums of chainhood. They are making burgers not only efficiently and at a great value, they are producing a product that exceeds the big chains in flavor and freshness, and doing it with the heart and soul of a locally-owned business.

The freshness of David’s beef should never be in question. They are so transparent in their handling and processing of the ground beef that finds its way between your buns, it makes you wonder what’s going on at the other places behind closed doors. David’s proudly displays all their beef, hand-cut and ground in house, in a brightly lit display for all to see as they enter the restaurant. The entire cooking process occurs in full view of the customers. Your likely to see a young man or woman stationed behind a blazing hot flat-top in the center of the kitchen, stoically slapping large balls of bright red ground beef across the hot metal, steam billowing up into his or her face like an angry geyser waiting to blow. Yet, I could not help but watch in admiration, thankful to these young burger warriors for taking time out from their night to provide me with my guilty pleasure. It gives me hope for this country.

And the taste? Excellent. I’m not going to say this is the greatest burger I’ve ever eaten in my life. But I will say it trumps any of the aforementioned chains with ease. The beef is cooked exactly how a thin, flat-top burger should be cooked, and has just the right fat to protein ratio. The beef remains tender and juicy, without being saturated with grease. The fries are not to be overlooked either…crispy, golden exterior and tender interior, and lots of them to each order. They make In-N-Out’s fries seem more like Styrofoam than potatoes (actually, that’s not very difficult to do).

Support the local guys. Arkansas is no stranger to chains, but we would all be better off if we could continue to see the homegrown businesses flourish a little more. There are swarms of brilliant, talented chefs, cooks, and bakers in this state and many of them simply need fertile soil in which to spread their culinary roots.

David's Burgers (2 locations):
101 S Bowman Rd, Little Rock -and- 201 Skyline Dr. #1100, Conway

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Datsaburger doesn't quite make it

Michael Roberts — Fri, 27 Jul 2012 13:04:26 -0500

Pulling into the parking lot of Datsaburger, the relatively new faux-50s themed burger joint in Bryant, we asked ourselves if Central Arkansas really needed another place touting high-end burgers. Little Rock's burger scene is a crowded one, with several locally owned restaurants like Big Orange, the Root Cafe, and Arkansas Burger Company competing with nationally established chains for supremacy in the world of seared ground beef. Things are a little different down I-30 in Saline County, though, with the usual fast food suspects and big-box franchises making up the bulk of restaurant choices in Bryant, and so we were excited to see a new, locally-owned restaurant open up advertising burgers that their website describes as being made with "the best quality products" served up with "excellent customer service." The dining area, all black and white tile with chrome and red trim looked promising, if a little hokey.

Datsaburger is one of those "order at the counter" places, and the menus were large and easily visible. Deciding to let the place do what they claimed to do best, we ordered the Datsaburger ($4.59) with a slice of pepper jack cheese for another $0.65. And since Datsaburger's tagline is "Home of the Bottomless Basket of Fries," we went for the fries-and-a-drink upgrade ($3.49), making our total combo fairly reasonable for a mid-price burger place. Wanting to try some of the non-beef portions of the menu, we also ordered the Datsa Razorback Burger ($5.49), a pork burger covered in grilled onions and barbecue sauce. Our cashier handed us a couple of styrofoam cups and we headed over into the main seating area to take a look around.

The first thing that struck us about the dining room at Datsaburger was a decent sized toppings bar...that was barely filled with anything at all. Two stainless steel pans held some of the saddest, palest slices of tomato I've ever seen and a limp pile of shredded iceberg lettuce that was light green and flecked with beige. A few other smaller containers contained jalapenos, pickles, raw onion, and a couple of bottles of mustard and mayonnaise — and we were skeptical that the swiftly melting ice in the bar could keep these ingredients cold enough to stay fresh. We stared at this sad state of affairs for some time, feeling the growing sense of dismay that comes when you know you're in for far less than you bargained for.

Being the eternal optimists we are, we tucked into our food with gusto just as soon as it arrived. The "bottomless basket of fries" turned out to be a small handful of the crinkle-cut variety found commonly in school cafeterias. They were hot and crisp, though, and since mushy fries are a huge pet peeve of ours we forgave the use of frozen fries in light of these at least succeeding in terms of texture. The beef burger was large, and while the patty seemed to also be of the pre-formed and frozen variety it was decently seasoned and nicely cooked, with the thick slice of cheese melted just right over the top. We rather doubted that the burger was made from the "fresh Black Angus ground beef" advertised on the menu, as the taste and texture reminded us more of the pre-made burgers served at the ball game concession stands of our childhood.

The Razorback burger confirmed our disappointment and was really the final straw in our deciding that we just couldn't bring ourselves to like the place. The pork patty was bland and flavorless, and while the onions were grilled well, the whole thing was buried under such an incredible amount of vinegary sauce that it tasted of nothing else. The sauce itself wasn't bad, and might have actually worked well in a smaller quantity, but there wasn't anything to be done to help the pork. The whole sandwich was a step up from the McRib, but only just. The lone bright spot of the sandwich was the bread, which the menu says is baked locally and had a nice, soft texture that held up well beneath the drenching puddle of sauce.

In the end, we felt that Datsaburger spent a lot of time on their decor and hyperbolic website and not a lot of time on the actual food. The service was of the sort where you're handed your food, expected to dump your own wilted condiments on it, and are never spoken to again. Datsaburger is a of place that could possibly work in a town with very few other dining options; as it is, the place has no hope in competing with the big boys of the Central Arkansas burger scene. The menu is at a price point to put it just outside the range of fast food and isn't nearly justified by the lack of quality in the ingredients used. The website claims that founders Clay Buck and Dino Ochello have traveled all around the Mid-South "searching for the best burgers around," and if that's true, they should already know how far they are from producing them at Datsaburger.

The restaurant is located at 3411 Main St. in Bryant, and is open 11 a.m.-8 p.m. Mon.-Thu. and 11 a.m.-9 p.m. Fri.-Sat.

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Capital Bar and Grill's burger misses where it matters most

Daniel Walker — Mon, 23 Jul 2012 09:15:00 -0500

Nearly every food lover I know is searching for the best burger in their city. I am no different -- I am completely smitten with beef between two buns. No matter how often I try to stray from non-burger items on an unfamiliar menu, I always seem to find myself overcome with curiosity and order the burger, thinking that, perhaps, this could be that hidden gem, the best undiscovered burger in the city.

The Capital Bar & Grill’s burger has been touted as one of the best in Little Rock, and with food buzz like that floating around, it was only natural that I put such claims to the test. I always have respect for a place that has the guts to name their spin on this American classic, “The Burger.” Perhaps they are claiming that this is “the” burger to end all burgers, and that all other burgers best step aside while “the” burger is making its way to the table. Regardless, I accept their audacity. I enjoy a little ego in my meals.

The problem is, CBG’s burger has a lot of growing up to do before it should ever be proclaimed “best burger.” There is potential, but some serious errors need to be addressed before it steps in that arena again.

First, let’s point out the successful elements of “The Burger.” As I ordered mine with bacon and pimento cheese (as was recommended to me), I will speak to those elements first. The bacon is spot on. Cured in house, it comes out sizzling, smoky, and crispy. Perfect bacon is a thing of beauty that, unfortunately, is a rare treat, often too soggy and limp or conversely, burnt to a sad, dry strip of forsaken pig. Not at CBG, they are doing bacon justice. Next, the pimento cheese, which CBG also serves in appetizer form alongside soda crackers and celery. The pimento, tangy and sharp, added a nice creamy richness to the overall experience. However, its flavor was overshadowed and underwhelming alongside some of the burger's weaker elements.

Undoubtedly (and perhaps obviously), the most important element of a great burger is the beef. Here is where CBG takes a nose dive. At first glance alone, I could tell this thing was overcooked, with far too much crispy black char for any self-respecting piece of beef. I asked that mine be cooked to medium, yet there was not a hint of pink on the interior, simply the lifeless, sullen gray of overdone beef. Dry and dull, there was not a drop of burger juice to be found within this hopeless slab of cow. The texture was off-putting as well, reminiscent of the horrific frozen, value-brand, hockey-puck burgers one might pick up from your grocer’s freezer aisle. I wish I could speak better of the bun, but alas, I cannot. Plain and dry, it was nothing remarkable and quite forgettable.

The search for Little Rock’s best burger certainly does not end at the Capital Hotel. I am confident that with a few upgrades, CBG could produce a worthy contender, but for now, I’ve got at least a dozen places I’d recommend before you go dropping fifteen bones on this thing. Hey, at least the fries are good.

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Big Orange goes gluten free

Cheree Franco — Tue, 17 Jul 2012 15:39:12 -0500

Way out west in the land of upscale strip malls, there's a magical respite called Big Orange. It's the stuff of lore — thick juicy patties, truffle oil fries and succulent milkshakes — heralded by herbivores and carnivores alike. And now, with the introduction of a new bun that essentially transforms the entire menu to gluten-free, Big Orange is inviting celiacs to join the party. Tonight Big Orange will debut Dempsey Bakery's Hearty Italian buns, made of rice flour, potato starch, olive oil, millet, flax, maple syrup and arrowroot. For an additional $1.25, any Dempsy burger can go gluten-free, and most veggie burgers can go vegan, since it's been the bun holding them back all along. (Not to denigrate the fluffy, buttery house buns, you understand...) Fans of Dempsey Bakery, where all the offerings are gluten-free, may recognize the buns as a variation on the Hearty Italian baguette or loaf bread sold in-house. Matt Beachboard, the Big Orange manager, describes the bun as a gluten-free focaccia. Paula Dempsey, of Dempsey, said the bun is fluffy with a white bread texture, but it's not quite as large as the normal Big Orange bun. "In my experience, gluten-free people don't like a lot of bread," she explained.

Tonight the Big Orange cheese dip with corn tortillas is a featured appetizer, in honor of all things gluten-free. And if you are the first to upload a picture of yourself eating a gluten free burger to the Big Orange Facebook page, you win a $10 Big Orange gift-card. Happy wheat-shunning, folks!

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Quick lunch update on Dugan's Pub

Robert Bell — Fri, 08 Jun 2012 13:00:12 -0500

Big portions await the hungry lunch-seeker who finds his way to Dugan’s Pub. The bar and restaurant has become a staple in the River Market District on the strength of a pleasant patio, a relaxed atmosphere and ample portions (cheese “sticks?” No, those are cheese “logs.”) They also have a respectable pour of Guinness as well as a good selection of whiskeys – always a must for any place that bills itself as an Irish pub.

One highlight from a recent lunch at Dugan’s: a bleu cheese burger ($8) that was gigantic and satisfying, with a crunchy, perfect onion ring that begs the question: why don’t all burgers come with an onion ring standard? This one had crumbled bleu cheese on top, as opposed to the type that has the cheese mixed in with the ground beef. Once you’ve experienced crunchy, caramelized goodness of the latter style it’s hard to go back, but the Dugan’s version was still very good. It came with a side of bleu cheese dressing that proved unnecessary, given the generous portion of cheese already on the burger.

A zucchini grinder ($7.25) was a flavorful, surprisingly filling sandwich that would please vegetarians and omnivores alike.

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Mooyah open in Hot Springs, coming soon to LR

David Koon — Fri, 20 Apr 2012 09:34:38 -0500

We're big fans of the recent Central Arkansas influx of pick-your-toppings burger joints like Five Guys, Big Orange and David's Burgers. Given that, we're understandably stoked to hear that a new contender for the Big Burger crown is now open in Hot Springs. Their webpage says an outlet is coming soon to Little Rock.

Mooyah burgers is a Texas-based chain with locations in five states. As seen on Mooyah's menu, burger lovers can choose from white or wheat bun, beef/turkey/veggie patty, a raft of fresh toppings and regular or sweet potato fries.

Their Hot Springs outlet is at 3954 Central Ave., Suite G in the Dogwood Landing Shopping Center — open 11 a.m. to 10 p.m. 7 days a week. Phone: (501)520-5001. We'll give you a full update on whether Mooyah delivers the boo-yah once we get a chance to make the jaunt to Hot Springs.

UPDATE: We just got off the phone with Scott Strzelecki, the franchise agent who is developing the Mooyah outlets in Arkansas.

Strzelecki said the plan is to open up Mooyah franchises all over Arkansas. While the concept is similar to Five Guys Burgers, Strzelecki said, it's a more family-friendly experience, with the Little Rock location featuring a wall which kids are encouraged to write on. Each outlet bakes their own buns in house, with diners ordering by selecting their toppings from a paper "menu tree."

Strzelecki said the Little Rock store, to be located in a former Blue Coast Burrito location at 14810 Cantrell, is in the process of being readied, and should be open sometime in late May or early June.

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Vegging out at The House

Cheree Franco — Mon, 05 Mar 2012 16:24:47 -0600

Most Eat Arkansas readers are familiar with The House, a two-story house turned gastropub, tucked away on a Hillcrest side-street. There are a few menu pluses, such as suggested entree/drink pairings and a handful of veg/vegan options, but I’d been warned that The House suffers from unreliable service.

Last week a friend and I had dinner at the The House, on one of those perfect first warm evenings promising spring, and of course, the place was slammed. We wanted patio seating, but we ended up inside — which was OK. The place is too dark and plain to be considered inviting, but there is a brooding, artsy vibe that we could get down with. There also seemed to be only one waiter, and every table was full. His (forgivable, due to crowd capacity?) list of offenses veered from slightly annoying (staggered food delivery, having to mimic an air traffic controller just to get silverware, no water or wine refills) to all-out ridiculous (he dumped our fries on the table, scooped them back on the plate with his hand and said, ‘I’ll get you some more’ — right before disappearing for the rest of the evening).

We split the Thai Green Curry and the Baked Mac and Cheese, the latter of which is supposed to come with a choice of fries. Oh, excuse me, a choice of sides — which must mean fries, since we were never asked our preference and our dish came out with the aforementioned fries…because you know, who would prefer a side salad to starch on starch?

At least the Mac and Cheese was comforting. It was made to order in an individual baking dish, which saved it from becoming a congealed-cheese casualty of hours under a warming light. What we got: a textural feast of chewy elbow noodles, heavy garlic flavor, creamy mornay (a white cheese sauce) and a perfect, crunchy ceiling of melted cheese and breadcrumb.

The kitchen split the Thai Green Curry into two bowls at our request — a surprise since the waiter acted as if we’d asked him to harness the moon, and we quickly suggested he just bring an extra bowl instead. On the menu, nine ingredients are listed for vegan Thai Green Curry (ten if you opt-in for chicken), and the dish definitely tasted decadent. The base was a creamy, citrus-flavored coconut milk, made subtly spicy and mildly sweet by the addition of ginger and basil.

The veg version is supposed to come with extra eggplant, but there was nothing generous about the tiny cubes in our bowls. We completely dug the plump, baby tomatoes, though — slightly cooked and not at all mushy, bursting open in the most satisfying way, flooding our mouths with warm, fresh juice. The curry was served with a smidgen of rice (less is better for me, in these cases — I want to taste the substance rather than the sustenance), a wedge of lime and a sprinkle of cilantro.

By the time we left, the dining room had cleared out substantially. Even so, someone (a bus boy?) tried to clear away a dish that I was obviously still working on.

The next day I called in a vegan burger and was given a choice of French fries or sweet potato fries. The place was transformed from the night before. The dining room was nearly deserted, my order was produced quickly, and the guy dealing with me was chatty and friendly. Maybe I should give dinner another shot?

Back to my veggie burger: the buns are made with eggs, and I wanted to sample the vegan option. So I had focacia bread instead, which was a little tough in the corners. But the veg patty was a moist, yummy, whole black bean and mashed lentils concoction. I also saw/tasted red peppers, barley and spinach. It had a thick, jaw-gratifying texture and even held together well. There were no fancy flavors — the burger just tasted wholesome and fresh, and that was enough. But if you want a kick, dress your burger with little of the super-spicy (Sriracha, I suspect) ketchup served with the sweet potato waffle fries. Perfection!

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Burger joint of the week: 4Square Gifts

Kat Robinson — Thu, 23 Feb 2012 10:15:00 -0600

Burgers come in many shapes in sizes, from tiny sliders to the humongous Ed Walker's five pounder. Most are beef, though some vary into different grounds, such as the Buffalo burger at Jasper's Boardwalk Cafe. Some are served on sesame seed buns, others not. Many come with cheese or have it available.

4 Square Gifts in the River Market offers its own burger, complete with a slightly sourdough bun, Cheddar cheese, sweet caramelized red oniions, fresh green leaf lettuce and tomato and chipotle aioli. Yet there's no meat component.

My dining companion and I dropped in for lunch a short time back, eager to enjoy a meatless meal together and to explore the Arkansas gifts throughout the store. 4 Square is such an inviting place, with high ceilings and big windows, a nice place to share sandwiches while sitting on stools in the sunlight reflected off the Oppenheimer Hall across the way.

They offer so many items I like to see in a lunch joint, such as a wide selection of beverages ranging from juices to milks to high fructose corn syrup free Boylan Sodas. There are usually items you can pick up and run with (after paying, of course) in the cooler, and slices of pie as well.

But we were in the mood for a hot lunch. My dining companion hadn't been there before and was concerned that whatever we ordered would not be enough to sustain us throughout the afternoon, so we agreed to order hummus and pita chips with our selections.

It took around five minutes for our order to be processed, put together and set out on a tray, which we fetched ourselves. He had chosen the vegan Chickpea Wrap ($6.25), a preparation of chick peas marinated in Indian curry. The wrap was a 12" flour tortilla, smeared generously with hummus then slathered with the chick pea mixture. Carrot slivers and marinated tofu chunks and a little bit of spinach were added before the substantial filling was tightly rolled into a nine inch cylinder and sliced in two. The curry was thick with the flavors of cumin and turmeric with strong notes of ginger and a touch of fenugreek. I suspect the hummus that lined the tortilla was of the red pepper variety. The peas had been cooked to barely firm for a texture not that dissimilar from oatmeal. The wrap had the advantage of being marvelously filling, and my dining companion took half of it away to eat later.

Our hummus ($3.25) shared was pretty standard but with a nice citrus note that gave the concoction a pleasant bite. It was served with pita chips. We had originally considered the Spinach and Artichoke Dip ($6.50), but it was out that day.

So, the 4 Square Burger. $8.75 initially sounded like a bit much for the burger, but the menu did not mention it came with roasted red skin potato wedges, delightfully seasoned with salt, pepper and parsley. The burger itself was a marvelous surprise; on first bite it gave the same sort of mouthfeel I have become accustomed to in my burger quest. While lacking the traditional caramelized crust formed when a burger hits a griddle, this patty did have enough of a crust to it to give the impression of a crust-bite. It was of a bean and tofu base, I believe, though I may be missing one of the patty ingredients. It was nicely flavored with onion powder and garlic... in fact, as the burger was consumed even more of the garlic flavor came through. The Cheddar was just salty enough to give the burger its balance against the sweetness of the caramelized onions. The aioli was a little sharp at times, but not too sharp. In all, this is a well thought out sandwich.

When it came time to go, it was no work at all to pack our leftovers, since everything had been presented to us in biodegradable cartons in the first place. My companion and I were both left with afternoon snacks after our meal. I can in all honesty say it was a good value.

Does it make burger criteria? That... is a matter of opinion. I think it does, just as much as The Root Cafe's excellent Mushroom Burger or one of the great black bean burgers at The House. It may be time to re-examine what really constitutes a burger, and place garden burgers such as this firmly in a new category to be explored. I will be interested in seeing how many other non-beef burgers make the cut.

You'll find 4 Square Gifts at 405 President Clinton Avenue in the River Market in downtown Little Rock. It's open at 9:30 a.m. Monday through Saturday and 10:30 a.m. on Sunday, and closes at 7:30 Monday through Thursday, 9 p.m. Friday and Saturday and 4 p.m. on Sunday. Check out the website or call (501) 244-2622.

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Chenal Mickey D's groundbreaking tomorrow

David Koon — Mon, 20 Feb 2012 13:53:32 -0600

They're breaking ground on a new McDonald's at The Promenade at Chenal tomorrow. While the news of yet another temple of cholesterol would normally sail right on into the circular file, we take note because the CEO of the construction company handing the build says the outlet will be "the nicest designed McDonald's in the State," with stained wood walls and modern decor. No firm completion date, but fast food joints tend to sprout like weeds these days, so we're betting on sooner rather than later.

The picture above is actually Ronald's place in Independence, Ohio, but in the land of McMansions out in West Little Rock, what will a McDonald's have to look like to impress? (then again, times are tough, maybe even for the purse-dog crowd) Most importantly: Will those chicken McNuggets taste better under a crystal chandelier than they do under a buzzing tube light? Stay tuned, foodies.

Full press release about the groundbreaking on the jump...

The Promenade at Chenal Breaks Ground
for McDonald’s — The Shopping Center’s
First Property Pad Lot Construction

February 20, 2012 — Little Rock, AR - The Promenade at Chenal announces the groundbreaking ceremony for the new McDonald’s to be held Tuesday, February 21 at 3:00 PM. This new addition to The Promenade at Chenal marks the first Pad Lot construction since the Shopping Center opened in 2008 as well as the first fast food restaurant for the Chenal Valley area of west Little Rock. Furthermore, this McDonald’s will be one of the first in the state to showcase the new, sleek modernized décor with wooden and graphic vinyl textured walls outlining seating zones designed to appease any customer from the casual visitor to the grab and go. “It promises to be the nicest designed McDonald’s in the State.” — Michael Todd, Vice President Salter Construction, Inc.

The Promenade at Chenal and project contractor Salter Construction, Inc. welcome all media to attend the groundbreaking ceremony at Pad Lot #2 located at the front of the property just cattycorner to Luxury Nails Spa.

The new McDonald’s will be developed by Salter Construction, Inc. whose home office is based in Conway, Arkansas. Notable projects include: Centerstone Apartments, Conway Station Park, The Plazza at Centerstone, Conway Fairground and Expo Complex and various locations in Arkansas of McDonald’s, Taco Bell, Popeye’s, Hardee’s, Chicken Express and Centennial Bank.

The Promenade at Chenal has gained much momentum with the recent opening of exciting new one-of-a-kind retailers to the state and has become the destination shopping district for unique and upscale shopping, dining and entertainment in Little Rock and the state of Arkansas. This is the first of nine Pad Lots to be constructed at The Promenade at Chenal. The remaining eight Pad Lots are expected to be completed by the end of 2014.

About Salter Construction, Inc.

Salter Construction, Inc. is a full-service general contractor located in Conway, Arkansas. The firm is one of the largest privately held family-owned construction and real estate development companies in the state. Salter Construction offers design-build, general contracting, and construction management services to clients across the southern United States.

Founded in 1975 by Gene Salter, the company quickly built a reputation for integrity, teamwork and commitment. Throughout his career, Gene refers to his clients as “respected friends.” This camaraderie and team sentiment is rooted deep in our company history.

Comprised of two operating companies: Salter Construction, Inc., and Salter Properties. These two often work jointly as one company to provide integrated expertise in finance, property development, planning and construction.

“We’ve built a reputation for fairness, for having the discipline required to deliver consistently high performance and the flexibility to respond to the unexpected.” — Gene Salter

About The Promenade at Chenal

The Promenade at Chenal is a 303,000 square-foot open-air lifestyle center located in the Chenal Valley Neighborhood of west Little Rock, Arkansas. The shopping center is designed in a French Gothic style, replicating a nostalgic Main Street shopping district. It's home to a variety of upscale national, regional and local merchants, many of which are first or only to the market, such as Apple, Nike Factory Store and J Crew. In addition to the shopping, visitors will find an array of dining and entertainment options, including the Chenal 9 Theatres with IMAX.

Vehicular access to the Main Street allows convenient parking in front of your favorite store or restaurant. Beautiful landscaping, extensive sidewalks and unique water features create an environment ideal for shopping, entertainment and socializing.

The Promenade at Chenal is located just 4 miles west of the I-630 and I-430 interchange. Exit I-630 West and follow Financial Centre Parkway which becomes Chenal Parkway. The Promenade at Chenal shopping hours are Monday-Saturday 10am — 9pm and Sunday Noon — 6pm. To learn more about The Promenade at Chenal visit our website at www.ChenalShopping.com or “Like” us on Facebook at www.facebook.com/PromenadeAtChenal.

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Burger joint of the week: Top Rock Drive In

Kat Robinson — Thu, 16 Feb 2012 10:15:00 -0600

The first thing to note about the Leopard Burger is that it isn't actually made of leopards. Nor is it spotty. In fact, the only reason behind the name of the enormous burger offered at Top Rock Drive In up in Alpena is the name of the school mascot. Still, there is a bit of relief to be found in the fact that no cats were harmed in the creation of this burger.

But I will tell you there was a lot of frying involved.

I have passed by the Top Rock more times than I count. Just about every time I pass through the area I tell myself I need to stop in and try that Leopard Burger (which is advertised on the sign out front). I never do, though. I'm either in a rush to get to where I'm going or to get back home. I was also under the impression that the restaurant wasn't open on Sunday, since the sign on the front door says "Mon-Sat daily." But this time around I saw the sign turned around to open, and sure enough there was activity on the other side of the door.

I came in, sat down in a booth and asked the waitress what a Leopard Burger was. "It's really, really big," she told me.

"A half pound?"

"I'm not sure. It has bacon."

"Ooh. Well, that's a deal-breaker."

"We can take it off. It's still really good."

I thought about it a few minutes, then ordered it with a side salad. The salad came out first, a simple bowl of iceberg lettuce shreds, tomato chunks and Cheddar cheese served up with Club crackers and a packet of Blue Cheese dressing. Simple.

It was about a 20 minute wait for the burger, but then it was delivered on a plate. And yes, my waitress was correct, it was a really, really big burger — probably a pound.

The Leopard Burger ($6.35) was a big fat burger — both tall and wide. Its single griddle-smashed hand-patted patty was charred all over its edge, and every crack was filled with American cheese, melted directly onto the patty. It perched on top of thick slices of tomato, a green leaf of lettuce, hamburger dills and fresh chopped onion.

The bun, though... I have had buttered buns, I have had toasted buns, I've had toasted and buttered buns — but I swear, it was as if this bun had been fried open-side-down in butter. It had a startling crispness to it, a quarter inch butter ring into the bun (like a smoke ring in a brisket), an amazing salty surface that made contact with patty and vegetation to create such an intriguing texture of sturdy yet pliant meat and crunchy lettuce and onion and... well.

My waitress said she thought the buns came from the Mennonite bakery in Harrison, but she wasn't sure. It was soft topped, like a very wide and shallow version of a Boulevard Bread Company bun but with a very white-bread-soft center to it.

The patty itself had been seasoned with just a little salt and pepper and the grease from the grill.

It was impressive. And I took nearly two thirds of that burger home. As I said, it was a big burger. And just phenomenal, too.

But... there is this. When I went to reheat the thing later, it just wasn't as great. That's because all that butter fried into the bun had made the bun tough. Ah well. I had a great experience with it on my initial introduction, and that's what matters to me.

You'll find the Top Rock Drive In on the east side of Alpena on Highway 62. It's open every day, and breakfast is served all the time. How about that? Monday through Saturday 6 a.m. - 7 p.m. and Sunday 6 a.m. to 2 p.m. (870) 437-5238 or check out the Facebook page.

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Closed for back taxes, Burger Mama's now open again

David Koon — Fri, 10 Feb 2012 13:15:25 -0600

Burger Mama's, the Little Rock burger joint that had been at the corner of Shackleford and Kanis until a move to a strip mall near the corner of Cantrell and Mississippi in mid-January, was closed Thursday and Friday last week due to unpaid taxes. A passerby reported seeing signs that said "This Business is Closed for Failure to Pay Sales Tax" and the Pulaski Country Treasurer's seals on the doors at Burger Mama's late last week when they tried to stop in for a meal.

A call to Burger Mama's today reached Delphia Jones, who said that the tax issue was taken care of last week, and the restaurant is "open and rolling again."

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Burger joint of the week: Chip's Barbecue

Kat Robinson — Thu, 09 Feb 2012 10:15:00 -0600

I have many times enjoyed the pie at Chip's Barbecue, and the cheese dip and the Muffin Special. But how does the burger at Chip's rate?

It hadn't occurred to me until I drove by one day and glanced at the sign, which was promoting its 100% beef burgers. It might as well have been a challenge.

There are several burgers offered at Chip's; the hamburger comes with mustard, the cheeseburger with mayo. The Hickory Burger... well, it comes with barbecue sauce and Cheddar cheese, and I decided what the heck, I'd try that.

After placing my order, I had a seat and waited. Chip's at lunchtime is always a bustle. Chip's at seven in the evening is a quiet place. There were a few regulars, but the place was winding down and it was quiet save for one mumbled conversation in a corner and the TV turned to the final moments of "Wheel Of Fortune."

I briefly considered changing my order. I had decided on a side salad rather than an order of fries or a slice of the marvelous pie. Well, I needed to watch my weight, after all.

My order number called, I went to the counter and claimed my tray — a large tumbler of iced tea, a nice-sized bowl of salad and... well. We will get to that.

I dug straight away into the side salad ($2.75), a salad that bears mentioning mostly for its value and difference. The side salad at Chip's comes with Cheddar cheese, black olives, tomatoes, red onion ringlets and carrot slivers on a bed of iceberg lettuce. It also comes with your choice of homemade dressing; I chose the Blue Cheese, and I chose well, with a nice clumpy dressing on the side. It came accompanied by crackers, no croutons, yet was substantial. It would have been just about enough for a light lunch.

But I wasn't there for the salad. I was there for the burger. The Hickory Burger ($5.20) was served up on a toasted seedless bun, a single robust half pound patty smothered in barbecue sauce and shreds of Cheddar. And when I saw it I remembered something I should have considered before I ordered. I'm not a huge fan of Chip's barbecue sauce. In fact, when I order a sandwich there I usually have the sauce left off, so I can add just a tiny touch of it to the bun.

This? My error. But a correctable one. I simply took the butterknife that came with my tray, scraped the sauce off onto the side of the plate and ate the rest. And it was good.

The beef patty is a tight packed ovoid cooked to medium well with a sincerely strong smoky flavor. I would suspect that it had been taken from the smoker, which would explain the soft crust on the outside of the patty and the level of doneness. But it was still a juicy patty, with a nice light Cavender's style spice.

I picked up a cheeseburger a few days later to go... and forgot to shoot it, darn me... but was comforted and relieved at how good it was without the sauce. Once again, a soft crusted burger, but the choice of mayo and cheese and tomato and lettuce between the buns was quite a bit better than the barbecue sauce.

You’ll find Chip’s Barbecue on West Markham a block west of the Markham Street Baptist Church. They’re open 11 a.m. to 8 p.m Monday through Saturday, and like all good Southern barbecue joints they’re closed on Sunday. (501) 225-4346 or check out the website.

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Burger joint of the week: Feltner's Whatta-Burger, revisited

Kat Robinson — Thu, 02 Feb 2012 07:29:15 -0600

I keep two restaurant phone numbers in my cell phone — Star of India and Feltner’s Whatta-Burger. The former is for emergency curry therapy when I am ill. The latter is for trips along I-40 to our west.

I’ve received a good deal of flack from folks irritated that I dare say anyone’s better than the Russellville mainstay — whether it’s CJ’s Butcher Boy Burgers across the interstate, Feltner Brothers in Fayetteville or anyone else. I got called on not putting Whatta-Burger in my 50 Best Arkansas Burgers I Ate in 2011; frankly, I am not 100 percent certain I even ate at the location all of last year, thanks to all the other burgers I consumed.

But I still like the place, and on my most recent visit to the area I decided that I needed to go back again and give the burger another try. Or, more succinctly, I wanted an orange shake.

I called in my order and arrived 15 minutes later. I did have to wait a few minutes for the woman in front of me to finish ordering; she didn’t understand the way things work with Whatta-Burger, but that’s all right, everyone has to learn somehow. A couple of times the girl at the window nodded her head at me, perhaps acknowledging that I had indeed arrived for my order or maybe assuring me I would not be forgotten.

My turn at the window. The two white paper sack order was picked up and placed on the counter, the clothespin removed. My counter girl picked up a couple of cups, shot some orange syrup into one, filled both cups half full of ice cream and squirted chocolate in the other. She filled them both with milk and blended them, topped them and handed them out the window in exchange for my money.

You can’t stand there in the window and watch those burgers assembled and smell that griddle without needing to check things out. So, even though I had just over an hour’s drive before I could deliver burgers to hubster and girlchild at home, I found my Sissy and pulled it out. Yah. Miracle Whip type salad dressing, lettuce, tomato and American cheese surrounding a John Garner flat griddle-fried patty between buttered and griddle toasted seedless buns. The cheese glued the patty to the bottom bun, the whole thing still hot and juicy.

And… okay, this? This was an improvement. This was so much more like Old Man Feltner’s burger than I had enjoyed there in a while. And I could pin it down exactly. The griddle flavor was right. The seasoning had been bumped up just a tiny bit and the bun was buttered just right. It’s still not 100 percent where it was back in 1993 or so… but it’s close.

And then there were the fries, which I always mention. All these years, and the fries have never changed, still bright yellow and super crispy. But this time, they were accompanied by several of those new-fangled Heinz dip packs of ketchup. Win! The size of the order? Still large enough to feed the three of us with leftovers.

It would take a lot for me to take Feltner’s Whatta-Burger off of my phone. If you’re in the area, check it out. That number’s (479) 968-1410.

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Burger joint of the week: Dugan's Pub

Kat Robinson — Thu, 26 Jan 2012 07:56:00 -0600

Something always conspires to keep me away from Dugan’s. I have parked nearby for the walk over no less than four times; three times I got phone calls that directed my presence to another location immediately, the fourth was the day the dang grill was non-operational. But I was determined to at least make it once.

And I’m going to go back… because the place has a great feel to it, a nice roaring fireplace to warm up by, and a burger that soaks into your soul.

It was a bitterly cold day when I was finally successfully able to darken the door at Dugan’s. I had decent hopes, too — I like Markham Street Grill and Pub but couldn’t stay very long at any point because of the smoking. Haven’t been back over there since the new venture opened.

As I said, it was cold, and when I walked through the front door and saw that open fireplace I was drawn to it. I sat right beside the fire and ordered up my iced tea and looked through the burgers.

They have several there — a Black and Blue like over at Markham Street, a Hickory Barbecue burger with bacon and Cheddar, a Southwestern with pepper jack and jalapenos and a Build Your Own. The Swiss Mushroom Burger ($7.95) looked like the best bet. They’re usually served up with chips but I went ahead and spent the $1.50 for fries.

Took about seven minutes to get my food, time I spent enjoying the heat from the fire against my back. It was after the rush hour and there were just a few people inside. A trio was dining in the snug next to the front door, a couple of guys were at the semi-circular bar and a couple of tables had diners.

The pub is a little different from other pubs around. There’s a lot of glass, considering the location on the corner of a ground floor of a building. The floors are concrete and the décor is a blend of wooden mantles and black painted ceilings. But it’s all right. It looks like the pub is growing into the building.

Got my platter — and was very pleased to see the double-fried fries. They were brown and soft and substantial. I would believe they were handcut and they still had a bit of peel on them. They were served up with ketchup — not Heinz, but maybe House brand? A little more vinegary than usual, but just fine.

The top bun had been swiped down with mayo. The lettuce, tomato, pickles and red onion ringlets were stacked to one side. The burger patty itself was half covered with mushrooms — I believe this to be only from the centrifugal force of the mushrooms on the plate when my server turned around at the order station with the platter. There were plenty of mushrooms piled up on there, fresh buttons sautéed in a Worchester style sauce with… was that a little beer I was tasting? Hm. The patty was nicely irregular from the hand patting, seared with those griddle lines and cooked to a medium well. The Swiss cheese clung to the patty.

It took a little bit to assemble, but once I did I encountered a different problem. The decadently sautéed mushrooms provided so much moisture that the bottom bun was dissolving. I determined that the best way to eat this burger was by inverting it and consuming it while it was upside down.

It’s a half pound of meat, I am guessing, and with all those mushrooms it’s more than the average person is going to be able to consume in a lunchtime. I bet this would be a great burger to nurse through a game — and Dugan’s would be a great place to watch one, with all those flat screens around. As it was, I made it about a third of the way through my burger before asking for a box.

I need to go back and try so many things — the Gorgonzola Dip, the Corned Beef and Cabbage, the Lemon Curd Tart. I hear the Guinness Chicken is to die for. There will be time.

You’ll find Dugan’s Pub at the corner of 3rd and Rock just down the street from Brown Sugar Bakeshop. Check out the website or call (501) 224-0542.

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Burger joint of the week: The Hop on Cantrell

Kat Robinson — Thu, 19 Jan 2012 07:08:21 -0600

My first question: will there be competition between the two locations in Little Rock known as The Hop? Because yes indeed, right now there are two different restaurants offering burgers, fries and shakes with the same name that aren’t connected to each other.

Indeed, this incarnation of The Hop Drive In on Cantrell Road is being run by the same folks that run Bob and Scottie’s Dairy Barn in Benton. And let me tell you, this is a very, very good thing.

UPDATE: A little more about the owners: Two years ago Bob and Scottie Viall opened Bob and Scottie’s Dairy Barn in the old Garry’s Drive-In space in Benton (a legendary locale, where, Scottie said proudly, a scene in “Slingblade” was filmed). Last year, the landlord for The Hop space recruited the Vialls to expand into Little Rock and about three weeks ago they opened. The menu is nearly identical at Bob and Scottie's and The Hop, Scottie said, but added that she and her husband plan to serve the barbecue sandwich that’s popular in Benton in Little Rock as soon as they can add some equipment.

The Hop has switched hands, closed, operated as not The Hop but as Hunka Pie for a while and closed again. In fact, I was very surprised when people started pinging me and asking me what the deal was with The Hop. Well, I’ve never been known to turn a burger down, right?

I headed over one afternoon to place an order for the family. Several other cars stopped in while I was there, probably just as curious as I had been.

I ordered up a couple of combos for me and the hubster and a cheeseburger kids meal for the girl child and headed home. I thought about a milkshake, but figured that’d wait for another time. I am actually trying to cut down on my daily intake.

I get home and open up our meals, and this is what I found — three burgers, a lot of fries, three drinks and a budding sensation of “hey, I think this version of The Hop is gonna make it.” And here’s why.

Let’s start with the kids meal. Hunter’s burger and fries were served up in a box. Her kid size order of fries was substantial (which is good, since she can go to town on some fries). She received a three ounce burger patty with ketchup, mustard and pickle and a slice of American cheese. And it was yummy, she told me. Of course, she’s three, so take that into account.

So the hubster’s burger… he always orders his with just cheese, lettuce and ketchup and The Hop kindly obliged with a cheeseburger. I got him the larger one — the seven ounce patty as opposed to the four ounce patty (Cheeseburger is $3.60/4 ounce or $4.60/7 ounce, combo is an additional $2.50). The medium-cooked burger had a nice pleasant crust to it, with notes of salt and pepper and dried onion. The patty had been cooked on the old flat griddle that’s been there through at least the last couple of restaurant incarnations in that location. Unlike previous burgers cooked there, it had been cooked under an aluminum steamer top, and this seemed to give the patty a bit more moisture. The hubster says it’s one of the best burgers he’s enjoyed in town.

There are several extras offered for The Hop’s traditional burgers — bacon (.70), BBQ sauce (a quarter), homemade chili (.80), jalapeno peppers (.60), extra cheese (.40), extra tomato (.30), mushrooms (.50) and grilled onions (.40). There are also several specialty burgers listed on the menu with a price difference for the size of the burger patty. The choices include a Patty Melt, a Mushroom Swiss burger, a Rodeo burger, a BBQ Bacon Cheddar burger, a Pizza burger and something called a Catfish burger. I should have asked about that last one.

Me? The main reason I didn’t get an ice cream delicacy was because I wanted to splurge on a Chili Cheeseburger ($4.50/5.50). The idea of homemade chili just set off the lovely bells and whistles in my head, and it has been some time since I had splurged so.

And oh my… it was a brave chili cheeseburger. Mustard on both slightly toasted buns. Raw white onion chips. A deeply red chili packed with tomatoes and chili powder and plenty of ground beef. What cheese had been part of the burger had become incorporated into the chili mass and was acting as a salty glue for it all. It was served in its own separate Styrofoam box (as opposed to the hubster’s burger, served in the traditional wax paper) for convenience and ease of handling, and thank goodness for that, because can you imagine the wet red mess that chili would have made everywhere?

It was bold and strong. The raw onions would later be a strong palatial memory in my gullet, but with the cooked onions already in the chili and the assumed onion seasoning in the burger patty itself completed a symphony of bright, pungent and mellow flavors that blended beautifully. If I were to make this burger myself, the only change I would make would to be to lower the quotient of mustard; one bun’s worth was sufficient. Two was a bit much.

The Hop does offer a lot more than burgers. There are a variety of “dawgs” (Polish, corn, footlong, chili) and sandwiches (fish, fried steak, ham and cheese and a Razorback Club with mayo, ham, turkey, bacon, American and Swiss cheese, lettuce and tomato) along with a variety of fried side items. And there are several ice cream confections — including a banana split, milkshakes and sundaes. The restaurant does have one of those flavor-add machines that puts a syrup of your choice of flavors into your soft-serve.

The Hop is where it always was, right there at 7706 Cantrell Road, just down the way from where Burger Mama’s will soon take over the old Eastern Flames. It’s open Monday through Friday 10:30 a.m. to 7 p.m. and Saturday 10:30 a.m.-5 p.m. The new phone number is (501) 228-5556.

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Big Mama's Burgers moving to Cantrell

David Koon — Fri, 13 Jan 2012 15:18:00 -0600

Burger Mama's, the big-and-sloppy burger, fries and onion-rings joint that has been out at 10721 Kanis Road in West Little Rock for several years, is pulling up stakes and moving to a new location at 7710 Cantrell Road, near the intersection of Cantrell and Mississippi.

An employee we talked to said that the old location has been sold. The new Burger Mama's new digs will serve the same menu, and will be a sit-down restaurant. They hope to have the new location up and running by Tuesday of next week. Still to be seen: who will survive the inevitable clash between Burger Mama's and Arkansas Burger Company, the local fave just down the street.

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Burger joint of the week: Black Angus

Kat Robinson — Thu, 12 Jan 2012 07:22:05 -0600

Throughout my childhood and even in my early adult years, Black Angus was the place to go for a burger. Passing by the joint on University during the day, the scent of charcoal grilled beef would cause my stomach to growl.

But the burgers there lost something when the restaurant moved out to Rodney Parham. There was something missing that I could not put my finger on. Today, I think I know what it was.

The restaurant has been around since 1960. I have vague memories of being told it was originally located at Fair Park and Markham, but my memories are of the University avenue store, cattycorner from Pop-A-Top. My best friend Jerry and I would go over there when I was in high school and get ourselves burgers and those crinkly fries — or if we were splurging we’d share a steak dinner with a salad. The place always smelled kinda smoky.

I think I was away in Jonesboro when it moved out to Rodney Parham, in a location that had housed Boston Market and Kenny Rogers Roasters all those years ago. I remember going and just feeling like something was off. The burgers just weren’t what they were before. I found myself catching the chili stuffed baked potato each time I would visit after that,.

The other day I was trying to figure out where to go get a quick dinner for Hunter and I, and I thought about the place. I wondered if the Black Angus burger might possibly have come back to where it was before. So I went.

And let me tell you what… that burger. Well, it looks like I remembered now, smells like it too. Doesn’t look like the burger on the restaurant’s website, but that’s all right. I ordered a Black Angus Double Cheeseburger combo (burger is $2.79, double $3.69, in a combo $5.14 and double combo $6.04) with onion rings, and Hunter got a Kids Chicken Strip meal.

Hunter’s meal was just 99 cents since we dined in, two chicken strips and fries and a drink. Even for what it was, that’s a great deal. She dipped her strtps in ketchup, cajoled me outta rings and enjoyed coloring the sheet she’d been given when we ordered at the counter. Yes, you still order and pick up your own food at the counter at Black Angus.

I was all about those onion rings, too, somehow both breaded and caramelized, sweet and butter soft. The fries, great crinkle-cut fries, were just dandy as always. I have a soft spot for crinkle-cut fries… I know, I know… let’s not go there.

The burger, though. The seasoning was right, very light but balanced with salt and pepper. There was that onion-in the burger flavor. And there was the flavor of smoke. Hot diggety, I think the burger has made a full return. I wish I’d tried it five years ago. Because I think what was missing when I first went to the “new” location a while back was the flavor of the grill. Sometimes that takes years to come back (and it’s why I fear that The Box when it finally reopens might not be as good as it once was, but I digress).

Burgers aren’t fancy at Black Angus. They’re just served up with a light smear of mustard on the bottom bun, with pickles and onion on a sesame seeded bun like they have been since the 60s. The cheese is so melty it’s integrated into the burger itself, oozing through the beef patties.

If you want something fancier, there’s the chili, cheese and onion Mexican Burger. Or if you want something more akin to what everyone else is serving today, you get a Salad Burger — which has lettuce and tomato on it along with homemade relish.

I had long ago written off Black Angus, and I shouldn’t have. The burgers may not be cooked to order. They may not be fancy or thick. But they are honest and tasty and a throwback to a simpler time here in Little Rock. Go take a trip down memory lane.

You’ll find Black Angus in the K-Mart parking lot a block west of I-430 on Rodney Parham. It’s open for lunch and dinner every day except Sunday. Check out the website or call (501) 228-7800.

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Burger joint of the week: Razorback Ribs

Kat Robinson — Thu, 05 Jan 2012 08:11:22 -0600

Smoke is great for ribs and brisket and chicken — but how about a burger? Yah buddy, smoke applied to a burger is excellent, and it’s something you’ll enjoy at Razorback Ribs in Yellville.

We stopped in a couple of weeks ago on our way across the top of the state. The joint is located next to the bridge on Highway 62 in the downtown area. It looks like an old Dairy Queen or the like, but inside it’s comfortable and red and full of t-shirts and posters and other schtuff inside. The t-shirts were masterpieces of double entendre: “Best Butts in Town,” “Save a Vegetable, Eat BBQ” and “Wanna Smell My Pit?” High class there.

Started off with a couple of appetizers, after the waitress insisted we needed to try them, fried mushrooms and fried pickle slices. I’m not much on just any average pickle slices but my dining companion was enamored with these, cross-cut battered and deep fried dills served up with Ranch. I was better with the mushrooms, big button ‘shrooms just salted and then battered. Pretty decent.

My dining companion chose something I would never have chosen, to be honest with you — the Personal Fowl ($6.99). It’s a big plate of round yellow tortilla chips covered in baked beans, shredded cheese, sour cream, smoked chicken and barbecue sauce. It just didn’t appeal to me, you know. But it did give me a chance to try the smoked chicken — and THAT, my friends, was pretty good. Chances are next time I’m through I’ll order up the BBQ Chicken Sandwich.

I do have to tell you before going any further, there is this item on the menu that will either titillate you or disgust you. It’s called Don Allen’s Slop Bucket ($5.99) and it is… well, it sounds like something weird you’d get at the State Fair. It’s layers of pulled pork, baked beans and coleslaw drizzled with barbecue sauce. No, we didn’t try it.

No, what I tried was the Ernie Burger ($5.99), a third pound Black Angus burger with one side. I got waffle fries at the insistence of the waitress. They were pretty good.

The burger… well, Angus burgers in my humble opinion tend to come out a bit leaner than other burgers. Not this one. In fact, it bordered on being a little too juicy. While it hadn’t crusted up all that much, it was just about wet from the cooking process. It had been char-grilled and piled on top of green leaf lettuce, tomato, pickle, red onion and a squirt each of ketchup and mustard. A slice of American cheese had been plopped on top (a little disappointing, since the menu calls for Cheddar) but hadn’t quite melted all the way into the meat.

It didn’t matter, and I’ll tell you why. That burger was smoky. It had been cooked within sight of those ribs likely. It had notes of hickory and paprika and a little brown sugar and some onion in it, and it was tasty. Tasty enough to even mention in my 50 Best Arkansas Burgers I Tried in 2011 list. That good.

We passed on dessert. A third pound burger with fries will really fill you up. But while I was checking out at the counter I noticed this cup. It’s a paper cup that has survived all these years. Turns out I had the right call on what the restaurant used to be — a Dairy Queen location. When construction was happening a few years ago, this cup was found inside an old concrete block. I dunno, I just found this interesting.

Razorback Ribs is open 10:30 a.m. to 9 p.m. every day except Sunday. You can call them at (870) 449-7427 or go check out their Facebook page.

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The 50 best Arkansas burgers I tried in 2011

Kat Robinson — Sun, 01 Jan 2012 07:37:19 -0600

Since everyone's doing their year-end this and that, I figured I'd join in the fun. We already covered the best pies in Arkansas; now, over at Tie Dye Travels, 50 of my favorite burgers of 2011.

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