Border Cantos is a timely, new and free exhibit now on view at Crystal Bridges.
The first thing we need to tell you about Faby's, which has two locations in Conway, is the tortillas — hot, soft tortillas that are handmade from scratch each day. They're as flavorful as a good savory pie crust, but not so much that they distract from whatever you put them with. And that's far from all Faby's has to offer.
We've been a few times and had the opportunity to try many of their items. One great starter is the fajita queso ($5.49). Like all good restaurants, it serves chips and salsa to you when you're seated, and the chips are hot and fresh and thin and the salsa is thick with tomatoes and cumin. Add fajita queso and you have a meal. That's a very thick white cheese dip with chunks — big, half-inch cubes — of beef (or chicken if you want) fajita meat in there. Because the chips are thin, it's a little more than they can scoop up, but there's a spoon with it so you can top your chip with the thick mess. Good eating.
Faby's also does a tortilla soup that's a rich tomato and onion broth, with an undercurrent of paprika and black pepper that's just enough to jump-start your sinuses if you let it. But just enough.
Another favorite, the supreme burrito ($6.25), comes covered in a big pile of tomatoes and lettuce and peppers and sour cream. Hidden under the vegetation is a thick burrito full of ground beef and what they call “gravy sauce” that works well as a topping. And we really enjoyed the pollo Acapulco ($7.49). It's a chicken breast sauteed in white wine and butter and mushrooms and onions and cilantro, covered in Jack cheese and served up with refried beans and rice and, yeah, those awesome tortillas (they'll bring you about as many as you please, thank goodness).
Faby's likes to stuff items with other things — and stuff them full. The fajita beef quesadilla ($6.49) is not a flat affair; instead, it's a pocket full of tender beef fajita meat that's just a little too puffed up for dipping in something else. But, hey, that's what your fork's for. Then there's the fried stuffed avocado (which, oddly, we've only seen at a handful of restaurants in Conway). Faby's offers two, a shrimp version and a chicken version. We tried the chicken one ($7.50), which came with rice and beans and a beef fajita soft taco (in this case, covered in that strange cheese roux they call gravy). It appears they split an avocado, cook up fajita-grade chicken, and pack it and a good amount of Manchego cheese and perhaps some other white melted goodness inside the avocado where the pit once was. Then they put it back together, wrap it in more cheese, batter it and deep-fry it. What you get is a very creamy interior punctuated by a bit of cheese-soaked chicken within a crispy crust. Fattening to be sure, but remarkably tasty.
We never quite made it to dessert, somehow. But Faby's has a very full dessert list with dulce de leche and sopapillas. And somehow we keep forgetting to order a couple of items that have intrigued us, such as the mushroom-stuffed chile relleno or the quail. That's the problem with Faby's — the menu's not quite as thick as a phone book but almost. If you're indecisive, it can take a half-hour to make up your mind. Fortunately, they don't mind if you take your time.
1023 Front St.
2915 Dave Ward
Faby's also does Continental cuisine, with tasty house-made sauce. We've enjoyed the shrimp alfredo and a salmon and lemon butter special served over pasta.
11 a.m.- 9 p.m. Monday through Saturday, 11 a.m.-2 p.m. Sunday.
Credit cards accepted. No alcohol.