Wednesday, May 22, 2013
Fine dining Gus's Fried Chicken lives up to the hype
I walked into the new River Market location of Gus's World Famous Fried Chicken tonight with very little in the way of expectation. I've never eaten at any of the Mason, Tennessee-based chicken joints, and while I knew that a lot of people swore by the restaurant's spicy fried chicken, I've generally found that deep-fried yardbird is never quite as good as it should be. There were plenty of open tables in the newly opened dining room, something that surprised me given the hype that's surrounded Gus's ever since we confirmed that a location was headed our way. This was a soft opening, with a limited menu, but our server assured us that the full scope of menu items was on its way quickly.
So how did was the chicken so legendary that it's called "World Famous" measure up? Well, it was good. Really, really good. It's rare that a place lives up completely to the hype, but just such a thing happened with Gus's.
- JESS ROBERTS
- Pickles
We started our meal off with an order of Fried Pickles, which unlike the breaded pickle chips found most places were actual long spears of high-quality pickles dredged in seasoned flour and fried to a crisp. Each bite was the perfect balance of crisp coating and juicy pickle, salty and spicy and sour all at once. We polished off a basket of six in no time, and despite the moisture content of these pickles there wasn't a soggy bite to be had. It was obvious from this starter that the Little Rock staff of Gus's had been well trained on the ways and means of getting fried food right, something that made us look forward even more to the chicken.
When our chicken hit the table, we were hit with a spicy, hot aroma that had our mouths watering. The chicken was lightly breaded, fried to a perfect golden brown — and like the pickles, fried so evenly and consistently that I was pretty amazed. First bite was cayenne pepper, paprika, and the deep, clean taste of peanut oil. Second bite was all chicken, moist and flavorful without being heavy or greasy. I'm not a big fan of the chicken breast, but I ordered one tonight because frying a breast and keeping it moist is the definition of playing fried chicken on hard. Gus's was a complete success, with even the tenderloin section of the breast winding up just as juicy as the top. This fried chicken actually tasted like chicken, and was a pleasure to eat even after the crust had been stripped away. And at around $7 a plate, this is easily the best meal deal in the River Market. The sides are no slouch either, with a creamy, tangy slaw and some savory beans rounding out a plate that was already spectacular.
With Riverfest coming up, I hope that the Gus's staff gets ready to be mobbed, because word of how good this chicken tastes is going to spread like wildfire. I know that I can't wait for the next time I'm sitting at one of those red-checkered tables with a 40 oz. in one hand and a piece of hot, delicious fried chicken in the other. I can't tell you if Little Rock's location is as good as the original, but I can tell you this: it's easily the best fried chicken in town.
Posted by Michael Roberts | Permalink | Comments
New eateries Gus's World Famous Fried Chicken gears up for Memorial Day Weekend open
There's a sign on the door of Gus's World Famous Fried Chicken, the much, much-anticipated River Market branch of the fried chicken mini-chain, that says the restaurant will be serving tonight at 5 p.m. It's at 300 President Clinton Ave.
I suspect, since they're staying mum on their Facebook page, that this is the beginning of a soft opening run that will continue up until Riverfest, when the restaurant is scheduled to be officially open. I couldn't get anyone to answer the phone to confirm.
Posted by Lindsey Millar | Permalink | Comments
Reviews Cowboy up at Sonny Williams
Dining out at a respectable steakhouse is always an occasion, but in truth, it’s not something I get around to that often—I sit down to steak infrequently for many reasons. A decent steakhouse is going to require you to really open up your wallet a bit — if you’re eating that bargain bovine, with sirloin/baked potato/veggies all for $20 or less, you can’t really expect to be overly impressed with the results. Additionally, getting your steak cooked properly seems to be something that’s far too uncommon. Medium rare (my preferred doneness) tends to be met with varying outcomes, and this only seems to accentuate the hefty price tag when things are not done correctly. It’s more forgivable to be presented with an overcooked burger—you’re put back, maybe, $10 — but a $48 dollar slab of beef is a bit harder to swallow when it comes out a little too close to jerky than you’d like. It’s high stakes eating, but of course, when done correctly, the rewards can be generous.
With family in town, we decided it was high time we rekindle our love for giant cuts of cow, swanky dining rooms, and a doting waitstaff — this go round, we determined to try our luck at Sonny Williams' Steak Room, that classic River Market steakhouse that overlooks all of the downtown hustle and bustle. It just so happened that Sonny is still doing things right, and our steaks were nothing less than top notch.
We began with a basket holding a loaf of freshly baked bread alongside a crock of whipped, creamy butter. Perhaps it was hunger that heightened the experience — which is supposedly the greatest seasoning in existence — but this little basket of bread was ethereal, certainly one of the simplest yet finest I’ve sampled in quite a while. It came out steaming, hot, and feather-soft on the inside. Generous heaps of gorgeous butter made their way across each slice, sometimes multiple times. Needless to say, it was rather difficult not to fill up on this beautiful bread alone.
Appetizers made another favorable impression on our table. Fried boudin balls with fried crawfish tails were enjoyed by all. The boudin balls, stuffed with hot sausage and fluffy rice were coated in a crispy fried exterior, lightly dipped in a rich, spicy remoulade and just a drizzle of a spicy/sweet chili honey glaze. They were surprisingly light for a fried dish, and the four on the plate were slurped down within seconds. Small bits of batter-dipped and fried crawfish tails were tasty little nuggets as well, but the batter-fry technique tended to detract from the otherwise delicate, subtle flavor of the crawfish. Next, throwing all caloric caution to the wind, we opted for the spinach and artichoke hearts dip with jumbo lump crab and toasted pita chip. This dip was another winner amongst all at the table—rich, creamy, and buttery, but the delicate flavors of the spinach and artichoke still shone through the fat. But the pita chips really pushed the dish over the top. The description claims these are “toasted,” and they may be, but they tasted to be fried lightly in a pan. Though they appeared at first glance, due to their relative thickness, to be nothing more than greasy, hard and crunchy chips, we were all surprised by the airy, soft texture—another appetizer worth a sample.
Posted by Daniel Walker | Permalink | Comments (11)
Monday, May 20, 2013
Tacos Botanas bar The Fold opens
- image from The Fold Facebook page
The Fold, the new taqueria and cocktail bar from Bart Barlogie and Wilson Brandt, opened this weekend in Riverdale. They're open Tues. - Thur. 11:00 a.m. - 11:00 p.m.; Fri. - Sat. 11:00 a.m. - 12:00 a.m.; Sun. 11:00 a.m. - 11:00 p.m. (phone number: 916-9706). Based on the epic lines at Local Lime, the market for upscale and eclectic Mexican food in Little Rock is strong, so we’re expecting a hit. Located in a renovated 1950s gas station at 3501 Old Cantrell Hill Road, the restaurant's specialty is botanas — small plates, or snacks — while the bar will focus on Mezcal. We’re psyched to sample the cocktails, which feature hand-squeezed juice. See some samples after the jump.
Posted by David Ramsey | Permalink | Comments (6)
Coming soon Greek week continues: Little Greek Restaurant UPDATE
The Little Greek Restaurant franchise, which says it offers Greek food with an American touch, is coming to Little Rock, taking over the site that housed Cheeburger Cheeburger in the Pleasant Ridge Town Center.
The Little Rock website for the franchise has links to menus in Florida, where the franchise started, and Texas. You got your lamb skewers, mousaka (as LGR spells it), gyros, hummus, etc. The Little Rock phone number hasn't been activated yet; we've left a call with the chain owner Nick Vojnovic to find out when the restaurant will open and who owns the franchise here. [See update below.]
The restaurant's Facebook page offered up the above photograph of spanakopita and Greek salad, which looks pretty good. Looks like a nice beet slice atop the salad.
UPDATE: That is indeed a beet on the top of the Greek salad, a salad that also includes two lettuces, pepperoncini, onions, bell pepper, olives, feta and a potato salad mixture with homemade dressing, company president Vojnovic says. The recipe comes from Greek cooking in Tarpon Springs, Fla., which has the largest Greek population of any American town, thanks to its 19th century sponge diving business.
Franchise holders are Thad and Michelle Waugh. They are hiring between 20 and 30 people for the new restaurant.
The restaurant owners hope to open in early July, Vojnovic said. He said the menu hasn't been formalized to add local tastes (like the Texas one, which includes a filet mignon skewer). The Little Rock restaurant will be the 14th in the chain.
Posted by Leslie Newell Peacock | Permalink | Comments (4)
Sunday, May 19, 2013
Chew on this A perfect sausage from Butcher and Public
- JESS ROBERTS
- Sausage with chimichurri
Central Arkansas is blessed with some really good sausage makers. Whether it's the house made sausages from Hillcrest Artisan Meats, Edwards Food Giant, or straight from the farm, there's no shortage of really fantastic sausage in the area. To this list of greats, add Travis McConnell, a man with no small amount of experience making charcuterie, and who has been slowly rolling out his Butcher and Public restaurant concept at various events around town.
I wasn't able to attend the big hog roast that McConnell threw last February, but I was lucky enough to catch him grilling some of his homemade sausages at the Bernice Garden Farmers Market. I ordered up a hot one and was treated to a large juicy sausage nestled just right on a split and grilled baguette. Toppings were of a "do it yourself" nature, so I slathered on a generous amount of mustard and a couple of spoonfuls of a tasty looking chimichurri — there was also a bread-and-butter pickle mix, but I'm not a fan of sweet pickles. The result was one of the best things I've eaten in awhile: tender, savory grilled sausage on chewy bread, kicked up with mustard and finished with a chimichurri that was just the right balance of garlic, fresh herbs, and good oil. I was eating off a paper holder on a park bench, but I might as well have been eating somewhere fine.
I'd wondered when Chef McConnell first announced his plans to open Butcher and Public in the Main Street area if there was enough room in this town for another fine-meat purveyor. After sampling the chef's work, I know that I'll have no problem making room for such good food in my life. The Butcher and Public gang plan to do more market appearances, so I urge you all to grab one of these fresh-grilled masterpieces as soon as possible — I can't wait to eat my next one.
Posted by Michael Roberts | Permalink | Comments (1)
Saturday, May 18, 2013
Chew on this Pissaladiere, the acceptable early morning pizza
- JESS ROBERTS
- Pissaladiere
Mylo Coffee Company has become something of a legend at the various area farmers markets, with folks lined up well in advance of each market's opening for a cup of coffee and one of their many pastries. We've talked before about their kouign amann, the puff pastry delight that is normally the first to sell out, and I agree that it's one of the best things I've ever put in my mouth. But my tastes swing more to the savory rather than the sweet — and not surprisingly, Mylo has just the thing: the pissaladiere.
The pissaladiere has a storied history, arriving in France from Rome during the time when the Papacy was based in Avignon, surviving against all odds during the various reformations and revolutions to wind up on a fold-away table in Little Rock. The pastry is similar to pizza, only better in every way: instead of solid crust, the base of Mylo's dish is a thick layer of homemade phyllo dough, chewy and crisp all at once. Atop this luxurious base are caramelized onions, a thick layer of jam-like tomatoes, shredded cheese, and whole kalamata olives. The result is a buttery, tangy, slightly sweet and wonderfully salty dish that is one of the most perfect flavor profiles I've ever eaten. I've always been a fan of the morning-after slice of cold pizza — and the Mylo pissaladiere is like taking that idea to Michelin-star levels.
Because of local restrictions about selling prepared meat from a farmers market booth, Stephanos and Monica Mylonas have been forced to get creative with their dishes, including the pissaladiere, which traditionally includes anchovies. The couple is more than up to the task of changing their recipes to suit those guidelines, though, creating a host of vegetarian savory pastries that will suit the tooth of even the most dedicated carnivore. The Mylonas' sweets are popular, and rightfully so, but if you crave savory like I do, you'll find your perfect morning companion with this little square piece of cheesy, salty joy. It's become my go-to weekend breakfast — so if you all go out to try it, be sure to save me one.
Posted by Michael Roberts | Permalink | Comments (3)
Friday, May 17, 2013
Food Feedback Friday Food Feedback Friday: midnight snack edition
The daily grind got the best of me this week, so Food Feedback Friday is getting up rather late…just in time for your midnight snack. No biggie, the rules remain the same. Let us know what you’re eating, who’s really knocking it out of the park, and who’s falling flat. I’ve got the in-laws in town this weekend, which means fine dining is store for my wife and me. We’re thinking steaks…been too long since I’ve had a quality bone-in rib eye. Arthur’s or Sonny Williams have been the two we’re been considering most carefully.
Last week on Food Feedback Friday, Raven calls the zucchini salsa at Local Lime “one of the best salsas I’ve ever eaten,” but has some issues with the scant toppings from the pizza at Santa Lucia. Mordy ate some glorious sounding concoction dreamed up by the kitchen at White Water Tavern called “Thanksgiving in May” with turkey, cranberry sausage, cornbread stuffing, and mashed potatoes and gravy…as a sandwich. Kar had the chicken tenders from Slim Chickens and calls them “fresh, hot, and fantastic.” Hugh Mann had his “first go” at a sandwich from Hillcrest Artisan Meats and leaves satisfied, Kevin is underwhelmed by his pizza from Damgoode Pies, to which I say, join the club. Rooibos snagged a Reuben from the Capital Bar and Grill and says, “I’ve never had corned beef so tough.” That’s a shame. EY is pleased with the “huge short rib” from Acadia, and Joel checks out Leo’s Greek Castle under the new ownership, stating, “the hamburger was definitely an improvement from previous burgers there and the gyro platter as wondrous as ever.” You can read it all here.
Your turn folks, where ya’ grubbin’?
Posted by Daniel Walker | Permalink | Comments (14)
Thursday, May 16, 2013
Changes / Arkansas Cooks This week on Arkansas Cooks
I know a thing or two about transitions. When the editor of the Arkansas Times first asked if I wanted to contribute to Eat Arkansas, it was only a few months after the departure of Kat Robinson, a writer who has eaten at and written about more places across this state than almost anyone. After my first few posts here, I recall getting an e-mail from Pat Lynch asking if I was the "new Kat," to which I replied that while I could never hope to replace her, I hoped I could do the blog justice. Things really started clicking a few months later when Dan joined the blog, and it's been relatively smooth sailing ever since.
And now, once again, I find myself in a place of transition, and once again I'm nervous and excited. Many of you are familiar with Arkansas Cooks, the local interview show hosted by Mary Twedt that airs every Saturday at noon on KUAR FM 89.1. Mary's been doing the show for ten years, and I've been an avid listener for many of those ten. A couple of months ago, Mary approached me and asked if I'd be interested in doing some episodes of Arkansas Cooks, as she was looking to transition into a less active role but wanted to keep the show going. Now, I'm not a radio guy, but I jumped at the chance to work on such a long-time favorite, especially with good folks like Mary and producer Travis Hill. Now for those of you who might be worried, let me say: Mary isn't leaving the show, she's just turning over some of the work to myself and the excellent Neal Moore. But I'll be on the air this Saturday with my first show, an interview with the ladies of Loblolly Creamery.
I know most of you regular Eat Arkansas readers need no introduction to Rachel Moore and Sally Mengel, who along with Dan Moore form the backbone of Little Rock's best ice cream company, but anybody who has ever talked to the ladies of Loblolly knows that Sally and Rachel are smart, funny, and happy to share their ice cream secrets (which turn out to be witchcraft) with anyone who is interested. I sat down with both of them at the Green Corner Store right before a private "Sundae Tasting" event, that saw everything from non-dairy ice cream made from coconut milk to custard flavored with saffron, to a candied rose petal that tasted like pure sugared spring time. I learned how long it took for Rachel to perfect their basic vanilla recipe (months) and the origins of the name "Loblolly." In addition to all that, the ladies talked about their future plans — including the eventual re-purposing of Jeffrey Palsa's food truck Preston into a new kind of ice cream wagon.
The care and love that Rachel, Sally, and Dan all put into their business is obvious with every bite of Loblolly ice cream (or every drink of house-made kombucha). I hope you'll all tune in to hear what this fantastic local business is up to — or at least tune in so you can come back here and make fun of my radio skills. I'll be keeping you all up to date with what's going on with the show; and of course stick around Eat Arkansas for the latest in blogtastic food news.
Posted by Michael Roberts | Permalink | Comments (2)
Food festivals This weekend: Intl. Greek Food Festival
A foodie must-do this weekend is the International Greek Food Festival, which kicks off Friday, May 17 at 11 a.m. at the Annunciation Greek Orthodox Church, 1100 Napa Valley Drive in Little Rock. Admission, parking and trolley service are all free. Visit their website for lots for more information.
Now in its 29th year, the festival runs through 3 p.m. Sunday afternoon. On the menu for this year are all the faves you'd expect: gyros, falafel, hummus, tabbouleh salad, kebabs, spanakopita, loukanika, roast lamb, plus lots more. If you don't feel like standing in line, they also offer a drive-through menu with many of the festival's more popular items.
Attractions this year will include an Old World Market with jewelry, stained glass, wooden toys, art work and ceramics, a book store, a grocery section and a selection of pastries and frozen dinners to go. Entertainment on tap will include Irish, Indian, Greek, Scottish, Russian and Middle Eastern folk dancing, with something different to see every half-hour. The Centers for Youth and Families will also have a kid's area set up, with games, a bounce house, face painting and other things to keep the tykes occupied.
If past years have been any indication, the Greek Food Festival will probably be a mob scene, but they do offer free trolley service from nearby parking lots. It's loads of fun, and the food is well worth it.
Posted by David Koon | Permalink | Comments (3)
Bakery Introducing The Little Rock Pie Cycle: Taking sweet to the street
The latest in Little Rock's unexpectedly wonderful eating experiences comes to us via a young baker and her bike. Introducing the Little Rock Pie Cycle, a true Arkansas original. The Pie Cycle is the brainchild of Hannah Moore, a native Arkansan with a zest for life and a flair for the unconventional. The Pie Cycle only recently began selling its wares—every weekend Hannah jumps on her bright red bike with an insulated container full of freshly baked hand pies strapped to the back. She's been selling primarily in the Hillcrest neighborhood, keeping things close to home to keep her pies at their freshest. The girl's pumpin' pedals to work here, so don't expect her to be making appearances in Conway anytime soon.
So you stalk her Twitter or Facebook page, where every weekend Hannah posts her location for the day. She’ll be camped out at a park, or a bench outside the grocery store, or at a farmer’s market peddling pies to the hungry masses. You’d be wise to get there early, though, she often sells out quickly. I’ve been attempting to meet up with her for the last three weeks in order to gorge myself on handmade pie and meet the sweet genius behind this business venture. Last weekend, at the Hillcrest Farmer’s Market, I finally got my chance.
As I mentioned previously, the Pie Cycle specializes in "hand pies"—hand-held pocket-sized pies, akin to the more familiar fried pie—except Hannah's pies are baked rather than fried and dripping in oil. The small pockets of piecrust are filled with fresh fruit fillings of all sorts, neatly wrapped, and individually sold. To me, the sign of a great pie maker is seen in their piecrust, and Hannah’s crust certainly passes the taste test. Hers are heavy on butter, rich, soft and flakey. The light, flavorful crust creates an ideal backdrop for the myriad of fruit fillings Hannah incorporates into the hand pies. Our order included a bright, whole blueberry filling, a spiced apple, and a tart, tangy strawberry rhubarb. She uses only fresh fruit and all natural ingredients, utilizing local ingredients whenever she can. She’s creating everything from scratch, baking all her goods the morning she goes out to sell. To Hannah, “hand pies mean summertime. It’s a food you would eat in shorts with your bare legs hanging off the side of something like a boat or a bridge.”
“My father-in-law is a math teacher, and every year on Pi Day (March 14th) he celebrates with his students by doing experiments, reciting digits of Pi, and of course, eating pie. He really liked these hand pies I had been making, so he asked me if I could make 150 of them for his students. So I made 150 pies and I thought, ‘How can this be my life?’ We came up with the Pie Cycle as a way to justify a lifestyle of baking and eating pies every day.”
The Pie Cycle is a truly wonderful addition to our mobile and street-side dining scene, and it’s certainly something worth tracking down. It’s an experience, and a real pleasure meeting young people with big dreams and the creativity to make them happen. Hannah says she’d like to make a few bike modifications in order to accommodate cold drinks for the hot summer months. Hannah says, “I got the opportunity to live in France for a few months where we drank tons of lavender lemonade, which is probably the most refreshing drink I’ve ever had. I’m also working on a roasted peach lemonade.”
The Pie Cycle is destined to brighten the day of anyone fortunate enough to get their paws on some of Hannah’s lovely creations, and I look forward to seeing this small business grow in the coming months. You can find the Little Rock Pie Cycle wheeling around the Hillcrest neighborhood of Little Rock. Follow the Facebook or Twitter pages for the week’s locations, times, and flavors. And if you’re a regular at the Hillcrest Farmer’s Market, you’ll be able to catch her there most Saturdays.
Posted by Daniel Walker | Permalink | Comments (3)
Wednesday, May 15, 2013
Deals Now at Dollar Tree: The Mayo of Mayonnaiseness
Thanks to Arkansas Times pal Ashli Ahrens for spotting small jars of Duke's Mayonnaise at the Dollar Tree store in Riverdale and then hipping Yours Truly to their culinary significance via Facebook. We don't know if other Dollar Trees in Central Arkansas have Duke's right now, but as of 5 p.m. yesterday, the one in Riverdale had at least two cases of 8 oz. jars.
Why the excitement about what can be the blandest of condiments? Because Duke's, first whipped up in a boarding house kitchen in Greenville, S.C. in 1917, and sold continuously since then, might be the greatest ever expression of the humblest of condiments. CNN's foodie site Eatocracy has declared a tomato and Duke's sandwich to be, and we're quoting here, "the best sandwich in the universe."
That's a high bar, but they might be right. I tried a little on a turkey sandwich last night, and let me tell you: while it likely didn't do a damn thing for my cholesterol, Duke's made that bit of bread and bird positively sing with its tangy, creamy flavor. As noted in the CNN story, it's markedly less sweet than any other mayo you'll find, but that's not really a problem. It's easily one of the best condiments I've ever tried. Ever. In my life.
If you're within the sound of my voice, rush on down to Dollar Tree. We also hear they may sell Duke's locally at certain specialty stores like Whole Foods, but this is definitely a way to get it on the cheap.
Posted by David Koon | Permalink | Comments (6)
Tuesday, May 14, 2013
Cordell's potato and chicken salad are back again — at Terry's in the Heights
Dean Cline is back at work making potato salad and chicken salad according to the recipes of the legendary Cordell's deli. I confirmed that he's gone to work on the deli staff at Terry's Finer Foods at Country Club Station in the Heights. He's at work and made batches of both salads today, but word has spread quickly, so I can't guarantee what you'll find if you head up there this afternoon.
When we last visited, a deal to supply the salads through a former owner of Browning's had fallen apart.
If you don't know from Cordell's, long a fixture in Riverdale, it's your loss. Time was a tray of thinly sliced roast top sirloin and a tub of potato salad was the tried-and-true Old Little Rock sympathy platter for both funereal and celebratory occasions. I think I even eventually stumbled on the secret ingredient that explains the smooth and unwatery texture of the potato salad dressing. But replicating the taste of potato salad time after time — not to mention the firm, but not crunchy texture of the potatoes — is a real art. Cordell's had it down.
Who says there's never any good news
Posted by Max Brantley | Permalink | Comments (4)
Chain Link Quick but mediocre at Slim Chickens
The new Slim Chickens franchise is just right down the street from me, so it was pretty inevitable that I'd be stopping by on one of those nights when the idea of cooking at home feels like winning a free colonoscopy. I swung into the parking lot with my wife to see a line of cars wrapped around the building to get their hands on Slim's two chicken varieties: wings and tenders. Slim's originated in Fayetteville in 2003, and the menu is a mix of fried chicken, fried sides, fried pies, and fried soda (only one of those is made up). The service was certainly quick in that surly fast food sort of way — we were through the long line in under 15 minutes — but the food left quite a lot to be desired.
We dove right into the menu with the basic Chick's Plate ($6.99), opting to sub in an order of fried mushrooms and an order of fried pickles to replace the normal fries or potato salad. The substitution was around a buck more, which we thought was more than fair — until the girl at the speaker told us they were out of pickles. And she said it right when the little screen below the speaker flashed up a high-definition picture of said fried pickles. Changing our pickle order to another of mushrooms, we got our total ($19.85) and drove around to get our order.
The resulting boxes of food were...well, they were fine, I guess. The mushrooms weren't fried nearly long enough, and between their slimy texture and loose breading it was rather hard to eat them. A mushroom has a lot of moisture to it, and it takes a good stay in hot grease in order to get one fried correctly — something that should be par for the course at a place like this. As for the chicken, the tenders were small, and while they were juicy enough, the overall flavor was just bland. A dunk into a cup of "Slim's Sauce" didn't really help things, and the end result was a completely forgettable meal.
Now granted, this is a fast food joint, but I'd hoped for a better showing from the Fayetteville-based chain. If Slim's wants to compete in that part of town — next to a KFC, down the road from Popeye's, and very near Little Rock's busiest restaurant, the Chik-Fil-A on Markham, they're going to have to get their frying times down for sides, spice up the chicken and sauces, and get a little friendlier to patrons. I'll give the place some time to settle in and try again, but my first impression was that this location is coming off a little less than half-cocked.
Posted by Michael Roberts | Permalink | Comments (8)
Sunday, May 12, 2013
Read this Meet Blair Graves, a cheesemonger among us
- urbankandy.com
In Central Arkansas, cheese lovers have a few options when hoping to explore the thrilling world of artisanal cheese. But perhaps no one is doing more to promote the name of cheese than the venerable Boulevard Bread, and one woman, in particular, is more well-versed in the caseus vernacular than any person on staff. Blair Graves is a woman who’s dedicated herself to the study of cheese, pouring countless hours and logging many miles in efforts to become an authority on the subject. As the leading force behind Boulevard’s extensive cheese case and importing efforts, I’ve had the privilege to get to know Graves a little better, and I’ve been able to pick her brain a bit on this, her favorite subject of discussion. And I’ve quickly realized that I have a lot more to learn about cheese.
Digging back to the bright, youthful age of 11, Graves recalls the exact moment that she fell in love with cheese. On a road trip to North Carolina, she and her family were visiting the home of American writer/poet, Carl Sandburg. Sandburg’s wife happened to raise dairy goats. Graves relates: “I remember petting the goats and my mother bought some of their cheese. I thought it was the coolest thing in the world that I was eating cheese from the goats that I'd just petted and loved the cheese. This was the beginning of my food geekdom.”
- blog.lamadeleine.com
She recalls the coming to Little Rock of what was once Scott McGehee’s original neighborhood darling, Boulevard Bread. Upon hearing what sort of place McGehee had in store for Little Rock, Graves could barely contain her excitement. “I was actually Boulevard's first customer. I went in thinking that it was open (it wasn't) to buy some pancetta. Scott ended up just giving it to me because there was not yet a cash register. I was employed there about three weeks later.” After starting at Boulevard, Graves immersed herself in the cheese faction of the business, reading voraciously about its many facets and eating as much as she pleased, always in search of new, enlightening experiences.
Graves’ love of cheese took her around the world in hopes of broadening her knowledge, allowing her palate to mature—all of which helped shape her into one of the most knowledgeable cheesemongers I’ve come across in recent years. She worked in an Italian specialty stores in San Francisco, visiting dairies, cheese shops, and attending cheese classes, even holding weekly cheese and wine tastings. Her path paved in cheese brought her back to France, of course, as well as Corsica, Italy, Spain, and Greece— cherished times in which Graves was “wine and cheese degusting all over.” She encountered some exquisite cheeses, some of which most in America have never seen, heard, or tasted of. She grew a particular fondness for the “gorgeous, gooey, smelly, unpasteurized” French types that would likely leave some Americans running to the window for a whiff of fresh air long before a morsel ever reached their mouths.
Posted by Daniel Walker | Permalink | Comments (6)
Event Calendar
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Re: Cowboy up at Sonny Williams
If you have ever eaten an Omaha Steak and then eaten at Sonny W, you…
- on May 22, 2013
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Re: Cowboy up at Sonny Williams
Roberts knows his meat.
- on May 22, 2013
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Re: Cowboy up at Sonny Williams
If you had it cooked medium-rare, it's still overcooked even if they did it exactly…
- on May 22, 2013
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