Red meat
This correspondence badly needs a good photo of a six-pound Doe's sirloin, mounded with fries and swimming in juice, but I'm not in possession of one here at the motel by the Shannon Airport. Pix and comments welcome on this critique from a faithful Eat Arkansas reader (my own comment is that Doe's is a state of mind and when they hit the steak right -- crusty outside, blood red clear through -- and the fries are fresh and crispy, it's a wonderful place, and the service is generally as good as it gets. But the kitchen can be inconsistent when slammed, and sometimes when not, though rarely at lunch):
Let’s talk steak… and let’s start with Doe’s.
I worked at Doe’s in the late 80’s and early 90’s and got to enjoy the crazy days of Carville and Stephanopolis, Rolling Stone interviewing Clinton, Hunter S. Thompson, and more lobbyists than you could shake a double scotch at. Ole Bonny Mac (R.I.P.) could crank out perfectly cooked steaks by the ton. It was fun while it lasted, and I got a zillion meals of choice sirloin and other massive carnivorous treats. But that was then, and I’ve hardly been back.
There’s some damn good meat to be had there for sure, but I’ve always preferred a flame-kissed filet with a good béarnaise sauce or some good buttery mushrooms. Basically, less is more- 8 or 10 ounces of tenderloin is just more appealing to me than a two-friggin-pound T-bone. And with a steak, a good baked potato beats french fries, hands down. So what do you think?
Aside: lunch at Doe’s rocks, and the tamales are outstanding. I’m glad to see ole George spending some bucks on advertising, but I have to laugh at the ads with tamales in them. There’s chili on top, but they’re still in the shucks. Back in the day, we’d laugh our butts off at the occasional Yankee who’d do that and then try to eat the paper!
P.S. from Max -- I prefer good fries with a steak, emphasis on good, though I'm fond of bakers, too. I also love steak on the bone likeyou get at Doe's. And how could you mention Doe's without mentioning the nonpareil salad -- iceberg soaked in lemon juice and oil. Some people hate it. I'm not some people. Finally, there's the Texas toast to soak up the drippings. The more I think about it, the hungrier I get. I like to take a crowd and do the full Doe's -- starting with both shrimp and tamales.







Comments
We had lunch at Doe's just last week, and it left me with two impressions: One that I wished the chili was MUCH thicker, and then the question of proper tamale-shuck etiquette. Just what ARE you supposed to do with those discarded shucks? There wasn't any extra plateware provided for them, so they wound up lying on the table...which was kind of...ick.
ARK. BLOG: By the way, did you know that you can get tamales and chili in bulk at Doe's. They pack the tamales with plenty of steaming juice in a No. 10 can. Chili topping for tamales should be thin, Ninja, that's just the way it is. Thick chili would overwhelm the delicate masa, I think.
Posted by: Belinda
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October 1, 2007 01:21 PM
Insert Drew Pritt name-drop comment here:
Posted by: calmwriter
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October 1, 2007 02:40 PM
Belinda, I found the shucks a problem, too. I ended up with them on the far side of my own dish, ate around them, then moved them to the empty part after I'd consumed what wasn't under the paper. Be glad the tamales don't come wrapped in corn shucks :-)
Chili can be many things. Imagine my surprise the first time I ordered "Chili con Carne" from the menu at La Hacienda. Bite-sized chunks of meat in a thin, spicy-hot, somewhat sweet sauce served on a plate surrounded by the customary beans, rice and salad mix. I probably should have used the tortillas to make soft tacos out of it all, but I didn't want any bread. I just ate it with my fork, and I'm sure the staff were chuckling back in the kitchen.
Posted by: widj
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October 1, 2007 03:58 PM
I hope the new Scott McGhee effort in Stift Station will offer Steak Frites at least one night per week
Posted by: Diogenes
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October 1, 2007 04:44 PM
Does anyone have any comment about "our" Doe's, compared to the original in Greenville MS? Nothing quite compares to sitting next to those big, cast-iron stoves in the kitchen of that run-down house, watching the masters cook while you eat...and then there's the matter of standing and waiting for a table in the foyer...where the steak broilers are located. By the time you get to sit down, you're READY for a steak the size of your head. Man, it's practically worth the drive.
ARK. BLOG: I enjoyed that experience, too. The last time I ate there, Hodding Carter was sitting at the next table. I think the food here is a pretty reasonable facsimile.
Posted by: Belinda
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October 2, 2007 09:27 AM