Waking up to Frontier Diner | Eat Arkansas

Wednesday, December 5, 2012

Waking up to Frontier Diner

Posted By on Wed, Dec 5, 2012 at 10:09 AM

IMG_2004.JPG
Walking into Frontier Diner early on a Saturday morning, you're greeted by the affable, seasoned waitresses hefting large plates of food and pots of coffee. "Sit wherever you'd like," you'll likely hear, so you'll make yourself comfortable at one of the many padded booths or tables within this small antique of a diner. Maybe you'd prefer to sip your morning beverage from the comfort of a bar stool where you can easily chat up the other solitary diners eating, reading their papers, and complaining about some atrocities enacted by the government. Look around and you'll likely notice a large number of silver-haired regulars, spreading butter over browned toast, eating large amounts of bacon and sausage and doing things their cardiologists would generally advise against. The tables are stamped with advertisements from local businesses...hair salons, doggy daycares, car tires, they're all there for your viewing pleasure while you enjoy your breakfast. Frontier Diner is a slice of Americana, the kind of place you feel like you belong even if it's your first visit. The waitresses may or may not be named "Flo" or "Lou Ann," but you wouldn't be surprised if they were. They wear their smiles as proudly as they wear their grease stains.

On my last visit, I was feeling like a hearty breakfast, the stick-to-your ribs kinda plates that can leave you feeling satisfied well into the afternoon. The breakfast menu lists a few house specialties, the like the grilled “breakfast” pork chop platter, breakfast croissant sandwich, French toast, or eggs and smoked, cured ham. But the chicken fried steak and egg breakfast really spoke to me. I think the best time to eat chicken fried steak is in the morning, especially when it's served with a runny, golden egg to help finish off an already solid dish. This breakfast included a hearty-sized portion of breaded chicken fried steak, two over-easy eggs, hash browns, and a biscuit with sausage gravy. My dining companion was pining for pancakes so he had the short-stack with whipped cream.

The chicken fried steak was a decent representation of this classic southern favorite. The breading was crispy and golden brown, the underlying steak was sufficiently tender to easily be sliced through with the edge of a fork. It's not a mind-altering chicken fried steak (which I don't believe I ever had before) but it was tasty enough to warrant a repeat order. The eggs were done perfectly, likely the result of Frontier's veteran cooks spending countless hours at the flattop, turning out hundreds of eggs a day. The whites were soft and tender and when cut into, the yolks ran like a golden river released from the confines of an inhibitory dam. The hash browns were crisp but a little under-seasoned, nothing a sprinkle of salt didn't help. The biscuits are well done, fluffy and golden, with flaky insides that are rich with butter. Some may prefer to enjoy each item separately, but I tend to mix each part with its neighbor...steak and egg, egg and biscuit. They love each other, let them play together.

The buttermilk pancakes arrived piping hot, screaming for a dollop of whipped butter to grace their steaming surface. The two manhole-sized flapjacks were simply adorned with a swirl of whipped cream and we topped them off with maple syrup and butter available at the tableside. They weren't decorated with blueberries, chocolate chips, or nuts...they were simple mixtures of flour and water, but they were wonderful.

I don't have the time or the coronary arteries to eat breakfast like this every morning. But every once in a while, it's nice to mosey into your morning slow and easy, enjoying casual conversation over a warm plate of food. It will take you a bit longer than that value-menu Egg McMuffin, but it's certainly time and money well spent.

Frontier Diner
10424 Interstate 30
Little Rock
501-565-6414

Tags: , , ,

From the ArkTimes store

Favorite

Comments (2)

Showing 1-2 of 2

Add a comment

 
Subscribe to this thread:
Showing 1-2 of 2

Add a comment

More by Daniel Walker

  • The Kraft Mac & Cheese Food Hack

    Recently, we held another food hack competition, taking another childhood classic, Kraft Mac & Cheese, and tried to turn it on its head, creating something entirely new and unique. Again, the results were pretty awesome. The rules were simple: Use a whole box of mac and cheese, both noodles and cheese powder, and turn it into any sinister monstrosity imaginable. We had a vote via the Eat Arkansas Facebook page to crown a winner. Here's what was submitted:
    • Jul 30, 2014
  • Food Feedback Friday: The "We need your vote!" edition

    Alrighty...you know the drill with Food Feedback. Tell us what you're eating this week and what you thought about it. I love to hear all the suggestions and I'm frequently looking back through your recommendations to determine my next meal. So share away! Happy weekend, y'all.
    • Jul 25, 2014
  • Looking in on the new Le Pops, now in the Heights

    Le Pops is a wonderful addition to the Heights neighborhood. Laurie Harrison is incredibly dedicated to her product, she still works here 7 days a week and is constantly experimenting in the kitchen to develop new flavors. Check them out the next time you need a cool down.
    • Jul 24, 2014
  • More »

Readers also liked…

  • A sneak preview of Fourquarter Bar in Argenta

    A look at Fourquarter Bar in Argenta, brought to you by the folks behind Midtown Billiards. Beer, barbecue and killer cocktails abound!
    • Feb 23, 2016
  • Coming Monday: Little Rock Black Restaurant Week

    MoTown Monday is Ceci's Chicken and Waffles. Tasty Tuesday is Sims BBQ and Brewster's Soul Food Cafe. Wing Wednesday is Chicken King and Chicken Wangs. Soul Food Thursday is Lindsey's BBQ and Hospitality House and Food Truck Festival Friday is @station801. It's the first Black Restaurant Week.
    • Mar 8, 2017

Most Shared

  • So much for a school settlement in Pulaski County

    The Arkansas Democrat-Gazette's Cynthia Howell got the scoop on what appears to be coming upheaval in the Pulaski County School District along with the likely end of any chance of a speedy resolution of school desegregation issues in Pulaski County.
  • Riverfest calls it quits

    The board of directors of Riverfest, Arkansas's largest and longest running music festival, announced today that the festival will no longer be held. Riverfest celebrated its 40th anniversary in June. A press release blamed competition from other festivals and the rising cost of performers fees for the decision.
  • Football for UA Little Rock

    Andrew Rogerson, the new chancellor at UA Little Rock, has decided to study the cost of starting a major college football team on campus (plus a marching band). Technically, it would be a revival of football, dropped more than 60 years ago when the school was a junior college.
  • Turn to baseball

    When the world threatens to get you down, there is always baseball — an absorbing refuge, an alternate reality entirely unto itself.

Blogroll

Slideshows

  • Arkansas Times' photographer Brian Chilson was at Midtown today to check on progress being made towards their grand opening scheduled for July 7.
    [content-1]The owner, Maggie Hinson, will be handing out markers so patrons can "mark their territory" on the walls of the new location.
 

© 2017 Arkansas Times | 201 East Markham, Suite 200, Little Rock, AR 72201
Powered by Foundation