Shorty Small's stands big and tall for brunch | Eat Arkansas

Tuesday, January 22, 2013

Shorty Small's stands big and tall for brunch

Posted By on Tue, Jan 22, 2013 at 10:09 AM

image

After my lackluster brunch last week, I made it my mission to find some good Sunday breakfast food in this town. A friend of mine suggested Shorty Small's, a regional chain that I've always associated more with mammoth cheese sticks and cheep beer than eggs and sausage. Having been assured that brunch at Shorty's was worth it (even beyond the $0.99 mimosas), I headed over to Rodney Parham once again with high hopes for brunch.

First things first: Shorty Small's is an excellent place for folks in need of a pick-me-up brunch after a late Saturday night. The interior is easy on the eyes, with low lights and dark wood shielding the sensitive from the harsh light of day. Fans of taking a dose of the hair of the dog that bit them will find some excellent options here, from the aforementioned mimosas to $4.99 bottles of champagne to a selection of respectable Bloody Mary's starting at $2.99 and increasing in price and spice from there. These good deals are available along with the normal selection of beer and mixed drinks and are sure to soothe the raging beast hanging over from the night before.

As for food, my recommendation is to go with one of the Eggs Benedict variations on the menu — in particular the so-called Southern Benedict. This massive plate of food takes a buttermilk biscuit, adds a couple of patties of pork sausage, tops that with two perfectly poached eggs, then covers the lot in white gravy. Rich gravy mixes with the creamy egg yolks, firm whites, spicy sausage and fluffy biscuit to make every bite a piping hot joy to taste. And while the mountainous pile of egg and sausage is the star of the plate, the side dishes are pretty good, too: a fresh fruit salad gives a hint of healthiness to a plate that also includes a cheesy, greasy hash brown casserole and a hot, gooey honey bun. It's definitely too much food for one person, and exactly the right amount of food for a hungry brunch-goer.

Less successful, however, was the second entree we ordered: the Egg and Ham Chimichanga. In theory, this sounded awesome: a deep fried breakfast burrito filled with eggs, ham, and cheese. In execution, the eggs were overcooked and dry, the ham was non-existent, and the poor burrito shell was fried to the point of no return. Even with this weak showing, the plate was still better than most brunch plates we've gotten around town. The sides for the chimichanga were the same as for the Benedict, so all was not lost, but it won't be a dish we'll order again.

While nobody would ever consider Shorty's to be fine dining, it's a pretty great place for cheap eats and even cheaper drinks. The chain has tried unsuccessfully to expand in Arkansas, but the Little Rock branch (and one in Jonesboro) keep plugging right along like they always have. If you've only considered Shorty's a quick spot for lunch or a place to hit up for a burger in the evenings, think again: the brunch is good, it's cheap, and it might just be the best Sunday breakfast option that Rodney Parham Road has to offer. Shorty Small's is located a 11100 North Rodney Parham Road and they are open daily.

Tags: , , ,

From the ArkTimes store

Favorite

Comments (8)

Showing 1-8 of 8

Add a comment

 
Subscribe to this thread:
Showing 1-8 of 8

Add a comment

More by Michael Roberts

Readers also liked…

  • A sneak preview of Fourquarter Bar in Argenta

    A look at Fourquarter Bar in Argenta, brought to you by the folks behind Midtown Billiards. Beer, barbecue and killer cocktails abound!
    • Feb 23, 2016
  • Coming Monday: Little Rock Black Restaurant Week

    MoTown Monday is Ceci's Chicken and Waffles. Tasty Tuesday is Sims BBQ and Brewster's Soul Food Cafe. Wing Wednesday is Chicken King and Chicken Wangs. Soul Food Thursday is Lindsey's BBQ and Hospitality House and Food Truck Festival Friday is @station801. It's the first Black Restaurant Week.
    • Mar 8, 2017

Most Shared

  • So much for a school settlement in Pulaski County

    The Arkansas Democrat-Gazette's Cynthia Howell got the scoop on what appears to be coming upheaval in the Pulaski County School District along with the likely end of any chance of a speedy resolution of school desegregation issues in Pulaski County.
  • Riverfest calls it quits

    The board of directors of Riverfest, Arkansas's largest and longest running music festival, announced today that the festival will no longer be held. Riverfest celebrated its 40th anniversary in June. A press release blamed competition from other festivals and the rising cost of performers fees for the decision.
  • Football for UA Little Rock

    Andrew Rogerson, the new chancellor at UA Little Rock, has decided to study the cost of starting a major college football team on campus (plus a marching band). Technically, it would be a revival of football, dropped more than 60 years ago when the school was a junior college.
  • Turn to baseball

    When the world threatens to get you down, there is always baseball — an absorbing refuge, an alternate reality entirely unto itself.

Blogroll

Slideshows

  • Arkansas Times' photographer Brian Chilson was at Midtown today to check on progress being made towards their grand opening scheduled for July 7.
    [content-1]The owner, Maggie Hinson, will be handing out markers so patrons can "mark their territory" on the walls of the new location.
 

© 2017 Arkansas Times | 201 East Markham, Suite 200, Little Rock, AR 72201
Powered by Foundation