Southern food: Good, bad and ugly | Rock Candy

Friday, March 12, 2010

Southern food: Good, bad and ugly

Posted By on Fri, Mar 12, 2010 at 10:41 AM


The current issue of Oxford American is all about food.

I've been enjoying some on-line extras related to the subject this morning. Here, the magazine asks a variety of foodies about their favorite Southern foods, most overrated, last meals and the like. Capital Hotel chef Lee Richardson and bottled water magnate Breck Speed are among those interviewed.

They didn't ask me, but I decided to take the survey:

UPDATE: And since I enjoyed it, I've set up our own little survey on some of the same questions. You can participate by going here and voting.

You can see others' votes here.

LAST SOUTHERN RESTAURANT MEAL: If Buster Holmes still dished up red beans and rice and hot sausage at Orleans and Burgundy in New Orleans, that would be it. And I'd plug a nickel in the box to hear Oscar Peterson play "Girl Talk" one more time.

SINGLE BEST DINING EXPERIENCE IN THE SOUTH: How to choose? Chez Ocha in Lake Charles in its prime (sauteed speckled trout with brown butter and lump crab). Jazz brunch at Commander's Palace, from turtle soup to bread pudding souffle. A three-hour lunch at Galatoire's, probably including stuffed eggplant. A perfect shrimp buster sandwich and frozen mug of draft beer at Herby K's in Shreveport. That $80 dollar dinner on which I blew a $50/wk. raise and then some at Restaurant Jacques and Suzanne WAY back in the day

click to enlarge unknown.jpg
(J&S salad, chateaubriand, chocolate fondue). Justine's in Memphis (chicken and artichokes, for one).

MOST OVERRATED SOUTHERN FOOD ITEM: I'm with Lee Richardson. Sweet tea. And, much as I love fried catfish: Some of it's bad, but most of the rest of it is about the same -- good, but not platonic.

HOW COULD SOUTHERN CUISINE IMPROVE: Learn to fry potatoes like the Europeans do. Crisp.




FAVORITE FOODSTUFF: Tabasco in every form or flavor, but some particulars include their chipotle-flavored hot sauce, their spicy mayo and the hot sweet pickles.

FAVORITE MICROBREW: Fabacher. (I know.)

BEST DESSERTS: I'll stick with Trio's Peter Pan and raspberry cream pies and the seasonal strawberry shortcake. Back in the day when Borden's operated retail ice cream shops across Louisiana, their sundae made with Elmer's Goldbrick chocolate topping made in New Orleans and peppermint ice cream had its charms.

STRANGEST SOUTHERN-FRIED FOOD: Boudin balls. (Also the best.)

GROUND-BREAKING SOUTHERN CHEF: Lee Richardson is doing mighty good things at the Capital Hotel. I wish they'd sell the house pickles by the jar and the spiced pecans by the box to give as gifts, just to name a couple of the small custom touches that add to an impressive whole. The pulled pork sandwich in the bar remains a wonder.


Tags: ,

Sign up for the Daily Update email

Comments (5)

Showing 1-5 of 5

Add a comment

Subscribe to this thread:
Showing 1-5 of 5

Add a comment

More by Max Brantley

Readers also liked…

  • Coming Monday: Little Rock Black Restaurant Week

    MoTown Monday is Ceci's Chicken and Waffles. Tasty Tuesday is Sims BBQ and Brewster's Soul Food Cafe. Wing Wednesday is Chicken King and Chicken Wangs. Soul Food Thursday is Lindsey's BBQ and Hospitality House and Food Truck Festival Friday is @station801. It's the first Black Restaurant Week.
    • Mar 8, 2017
  • New music from Isaac Alexander

    New music from Isaac Alexander.
    • Jul 14, 2017
  • No Small Talk Ep. 8: Katy Henriksen, Springs Arts preview

    A packed episode this week of "No Small Talk": a chat with Katy Henriksen, from Of Note on KUAF; Stephanie Smittle breaks down the Spring Arts issue; and we finish up with just a tiny bit of Oscar chatter.
    • Mar 9, 2018

© 2018 Arkansas Times | 201 East Markham, Suite 200, Little Rock, AR 72201
Powered by Foundation