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I’ve been trying to make my way to Hillcrest mainstay Vieux Carre since their announcement last May of changes to Chef David Bennett’s menu, but somehow it took until just recently for me to finally get around to eating there — and it’s one of those times where I’m kicking myself that it took so long. Vieux Carre’s Southern-style bistro food looks very simple on the surface, but each dish is a wonderful study in flavor contrasts that makes the $7-$15 price tag seem extremely cheap, especially when everything is served up in one of Little Rock’s nicer, most colorful dining rooms around. Bright prints on the every table catch the sunlight from the large Kavanaugh-facing wooden picture window, giving everything a cheerful glow and a festive atmosphere. The service is attentive and low-key, and while the restaurant could easily flaunt itself as a stuffy, high-end place, the efforts at keeping lunch prices low and providing a casual atmosphere really make it a fun place to eat.

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Choosing something from the extensive starter menu was quite a challenge, with everything from crab cakes to bruschetta jumping out as something delicious-looking to try. There’s appetizer that’s unique to Vieux Carre, though, the Black-eyed Pea “Caviar,” and that’s where my dining companion and I decided to start. The caviar is a cold salad (for lack of a better term) of black-eyed peas, peppers, tomatoes, and onions mixed together in a tangy dressing and served with toasted baguette slices. We weren’t too sure about the stuff at first bite, not being used to eating our peas cold, but a second bite won us over. Firm, tender peas gave way to a slight pepper bite, and the freshness of the onions and tomatoes completed a flavor profile that we enjoyed more and more as we continued eating. We admired the balance of flavor in the dish, although we would have liked to turn the heat up on the peppers just a notch. Still, it was a fine and filling start to our meal, and a dish that sets Vieux Carre apart.

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