It was just over a year ago that I reviewed The Fold for the Arkansas Times, and my opinion of the place at that time was rather tepid. But after recently eating some crow about Local Lime, a commenter told me to give the Riverdale taco joint another try — and I have to say, I’m glad I did. The Fold seems to have settled into its groove nicely, and some of the issues I remembered from my previous visit — slow service in particular — were nowhere to be seen. And since the restaurant has a restaurant month deal going on where they give you a free cheese dip with the purchase of a taco plate, we were already pretty happy with the place.

About that cheese dip — it’s good. I love white cheese dip with just the right amount of spice, and The Fold’s Habanero Queso was just my style. Creamy, smooth, and with a subtle heat that added punch without overpowering, we worked our way through the ample portion in no time. I love that the wife and I got it for free, but I would gladly pay $5 for this dip any time.

Advertisement

My wife got the three taco platter, and she was immediately enamored by the Cochinita Pibil (Pit Pork) and the Puerco Verde (another pork taco), and although the Tejas steak taco she got as her third choice was a little underwhelming due to the toughness of the beef, we both declared the The Fold’s pork to be excellent — well-seasoned, tender, and quite juicy. 

I wanted to branch out from the taco part of the menu, so I ordered a Steak Torta, and I was rewarded with a massive sandwich of tasty steak, chimichurri, pickled onions and pico de gallo piled high on a perfectly toasted roll. Again, the steak was a little tough, but the flavor was on point. The bread was soft and chewy on the inside, but had a nice toasted crunch that I enjoyed. The voluminous toppings spilled from the sandwich onto the plate, making the whole experience a messy, decadent pleasure. 

Advertisement

I’ve always loved the atmosphere at The Fold — light and airy, with a funky decor fitting the space’s past life as a service station. And while we still had a few issues — the tough steak and an utterly forgettable rice side dish — our overall meal was pretty fantastic. Service was excellent — I think at least three people asked us how we were doing during the meal, and our food and drinks came out very quickly. Final verdict? I’ve got to change my opinion once again from “skip it” to “put it on the rotation.” We’ll be back to The Fold, especially the next time I get a hankering for a torta.

Be a part of something bigger

As a reader of the Arkansas Times, you know we’re dedicated to bringing you tough, determined, and feisty journalism that holds the powerful accountable. For 50 years, we've been fighting the good fight in Little Rock and beyond – with your support, we can do even more. By becoming a subscriber or donating as little as $1 to our efforts, you'll not only have access to all of our articles, but you'll also be helping us hire more writers to expand our coverage and continue to bring important stories to light. With over 63,000 Facebook followers, 58,000 Twitter followers, 35,000 Arkansas blog followers, and 70,000 daily email blasts, it's clear that our readers value our great journalism. Join us in the fight for truth.

Previous article Mitt Romney to campaign for Asa Hutchinson and Tom Cotton; Democrats comment Next article New music from Mandy McBryde and The Bridegrooms, ‘The Meanest Things’