The upper part of the Buffalo River may be the most scenic stretch of the national park, but it’s all relative. The middle and lower sections are spectacular compared to just about anywhere else in Arkansas and, for anyone outside of North Arkansas, they’re closer. From Little Rock, you can be splashing in the river at Tyler Bend in just about two hours.
Rough it … or not
Pitch a tent in the Tyler Bend Campground, operated by the National Park Service 11 miles northwest of Marshall, off U.S. Highway 65. It’s open year-round with flush toilets and even a shower with hot water. Great hiking nearby, too. Or take
Load up on smoked meats and cinnamon rolls
If you’re setting out in the morning on your excursion from Central Arkansas, you’ll hit the Buffalo at just about the time to start thinking about lunch. Bring an ice chest, because you’ll want to stop at Coursey’s Smoked Meats, off Highway 65 just up the hill from where the highway passes over the Buffalo. It’s been smoking meats since 1945. Load up on smoked deli meat,
Canoe or kayak
Unlike the upper stretch of the river, the middle and lower parts can be floated just about any time of the year. Tyler Bend to Gilbert (4.4 miles) or Grinders Ferry to Gilbert (4 miles) are probably your best bets. There are several places to rent boats along Highway 65, including Buffalo River Outfitters and Silver Hill Float Service, or head down to Gilbert to Buffalo Camping & Canoeing. If you haven’t yet, browse around the Gilbert General Store, established in 1901, and park your car where you’ll be taking out and avoid two shuttle rides.
Get in the woods
For a stunning view, hike the Riverview Trail from the Tyler Bend Visitor Center in St. Joe to the bluffs that overlook the Buffalo. The trail also affords a tour of an early
Dinner at a dairy bar
If you didn’t plan for dinner at the campground or cabin, head to Marshall for dinner at the
Drive-in for a movie
The Kenda Drive-In, nearby on Highway 65, is one of only three remaining drive-in movie theaters in the state, and the only one to stay open year-round. From roughly the end of September to the end of March, it operates on a winter schedule and shows films only on Friday, Saturday and Sunday nights. Go to kendadrivein.com to see what’s playing.
Detour!
30 minutes for a cuppa Rock-N-Java Ozarks Just past Marshall, the scenery explodes. The road begins to wind more narrowly and Ozark Mountain calendar panoramas spring up on either side of your car. If you’re not planning on stopping for coffee at the Serenity Bakery in Leslie — a noteworthy bakery six miles north the road — keep an eye out for Rock-N-Java, a tiny Highway 65 N coffee shop with quirky furniture (look for the table shaped like a giant matchbox), an upbeat vibe and postcard-worthy periphery.