Favorite

Ferneau says yes to lunch 

And we’re so happy it did.

BURGER A LA FERNEAU
  • BURGER A LA FERNEAU

We know the competition is stiff in Hillcrest. History, charm and general cutesiness make persuasive arguments to buy tiny bungalow-style homes for $300,000 and vie for equally prime real estate to build restaurants for the crowds that eventually follow. For those whose palates have long been won over by Chef Donnie Ferneau's culinary deftness, there is a new reason to rejoice: Ferneau is now serving lunch.

On a lazy Black Friday, we cruised to Ferneau for a lackadaisical meal. The place was almost too quiet, but given our timing, it wasn't much of a surprise. The restaurant has only recently opened its doors between the hours of 11 a.m. and 2 p.m.

Our ultra-friendly hostess seated us promptly, our water glasses were filled and our drink orders taken. The small things clearly count to the staff at Ferneau. As we pondered the menu, we noted our freshly polished silverware and the way the servers buffed the windows and unobtrusively placed our napkins in our laps.

The menu itself is diverse but brief. We happen to like this style because it facilitates quicker decision-making when you're pressed for time on a normal workday. Besides, there's no need to be overwhelmed or confused by menu items. To start, choose from the heavenly roasted tomato soup ($4.50), daily hummus ($7), Southern fried pickles ($6.50) or a Caprese grilled sandwich ($6), served with Arkansas hothouse tomatoes and fresh mozzarella. We quickly opted for the tomato soup and hummus. Both were flawless. The tomato soup is really a star with soft chunks of tomato and a sweet aftertaste of heavy cream and Parmesan cheese. The hummus also shared surprising texture and flavor qualities. Creamy and dense, it came drizzled with olive oil and with flavors of fresh lemon and basil that instantly came to life. The pitas served on the side were sprinkled with Parmesan cheese and arrived at our table perfectly warm. If you prefer something lighter to whet your appetite, choose from a Caesar ($6) or mixed green salad ($6).

When the burger we ordered came, we wondered if we had literally bitten off more than we could chew. It was so big it practically deserved its own parade. Served with a side order of homemade kettle chips, this artful collaboration of an 8-ounce beef patty, Colby cheese, tomato, arugula, spicy mayo, mustard and fried pickles was a whopping bargain ($9.50), with a flavor to match. It's probably best to bust out the silverware to manage it, but it's worth it. It was a classic dish, but also elegantly, innovatively presented.

Our next choice was the pulled chicken quesadilla ($8). It was complemented by lovely details like a tender, flaky tortilla and a delightfully tart grilled tomato and roasted poblano salsa. To offset the flavors of mildly spicy salsa and cheddar and jack cheese, this dish comes with a mixed green salad topped with local produce and a crisp vinaigrette dressing.

We thought both of our main courses were fantastic. The meal, from start to finish, suffered not a single hiccup. Exceptional service does not require coddling or reminding on the part of the customer. The only thing we had to ask for was a box for our leftover hummus. We never had to prompt our waitress for refills and she was not the least bit smothering. Taking into account the prices, the attention to detail and the meal itself, we've put Ferneau at the top of our list of lunchtime dining destinations in Hillcrest. Hopefully our next visit will be met by the clatter of a deservingly busier lunch crowd.

Ferneau

HHHHHn

2601 Kavanaugh Blvd.

603-9208

Quick Bite

An artful twist on lunch standards. The 8-ounce burger, served with homemade kettle chips, is particularly recommended. Also worth trying: the Southern fried pickles and an applewood-smoked BLT. Nothing is over $12 and you can add a mixed green salad to any entree for $3.

Hours

Lunch 11 a.m. to 2 p.m. Tuesday through Friday, dinner 5 p.m. to 10 p.m. Monday through Saturday, late night menu available after 10 p.m. on Thursday and Friday.

Other info

Moderate lunch prices. Credit cards accepted. Beer and wine.

Favorite

From the ArkTimes store

Comments

Subscribe to this thread:

Add a comment

More by Fritz Brantley

  • He talks, and talks, the talk

    A fellow posted an old newspaper article on his blog about a Mike Huckabee speech to a religious group in 1998. A friend faxed the article to me, then called to ask if I’d yet read it, which I had.
    • Dec 20, 2007
  • The incredible shrinking Huckabee

    Plus: COPS!
    • Dec 20, 2007
  • Going whole hog

    A Q&A with irreverent Arkansas-raised comedian Matt Besser
    • Dec 20, 2007
  • More »

More by Arkansas Times Staff

Most Shared

  • ASU to reap $3.69 million from estate of Jim and Wanda Lee Vaughn

    Arkansas State University announced today plans for spending an expected $3.69 million gift in the final distribution of the estate of Jim and Wanda Lee Vaughn, who died in 2013 and 2015 respectively.
  • Bad health care bill, again

    Wait! Postpone tax reform and everything else for a while longer because the Senate is going to try to repeal and replace the Affordable Care Act one more time before September ends and while it can do it with the votes of only 50 senators.
  • Sex on campus

    Look, the Great Campus Rape Crisis was mainly hype all along. What Vice President Joe Biden described as an epidemic of sexual violence sweeping American college campuses in 2011 was vastly overstated.
  • The inadequate legacy of Brown

    LRSD continues to abdicate its responsibility to educate poor black students.

Latest in Dining Review

  • Right at the corner

    The Restaurant at the Market dishes up date-night deliciousness.
    • Sep 21, 2017
  • Tastes right

    But Brave New needs a tune-up.
    • Sep 14, 2017
  • La Ha forever

    The newly spiffed-up Mexican favorite still warms hearts, bellies.
    • Sep 7, 2017
  • More »

Event Calendar

« »

September

S M T W T F S
  1 2
3 4 5 6 7 8 9
10 11 12 13 14 15 16
17 18 19 20 21 22 23
24 25 26 27 28 29 30

Most Viewed

Most Recent Comments

  • Re: Right at the corner

    • Your review matches our experiences. Eric, LouAnn, and occasionally Bubba all truly make one feel…

    • on September 21, 2017
  • Re: Tastes right

    • 'Diogenes - I'm glad you've had good meals there. However on Saturday May 28th 2011…

    • on September 20, 2017
  • Re: Tastes right

    • Big Fun you seem to be suffering from Pteronarcophobia :-)

    • on September 20, 2017
 

© 2017 Arkansas Times | 201 East Markham, Suite 200, Little Rock, AR 72201
Powered by Foundation