Hunka is not just for pie 

There are big beautiful burgers too.

Hunka Pie has been around awhile, but it's now in a new location, 250 Military Drive in North Little Rock, the old Starlite Diner property. They brought their pies with them, you bet.

Hunka is not just a pie place, but if you come specifically looking for pie, you won't leave empty-handed. Hunka claims the "largest selection of handcrafted pie in Arkansas." They're not all available every day, but the handwritten list they gave us the day we were there looked to have close to 20 on it. And if there's a special whole pie you want, made to order, call or e-mail (224-1104, chris@hunkapie.com).

The non-pie menu is big on burgers and other sandwiches. All of the burgers are one-third of a pound and are served on toasted buns. The turkey burger we had, in a rare concession to healthy eating, may have been the best turkey burger we've ever had, which means it actually tastes good, you don't have to fake enjoyment. A chili-dog freak among us ordered the chili-cheddar hot dog, but the waiter came back with the news that there were no hot dog buns, so our man ordered a bacon-mushroom burger instead, and was not displeased. Now that we've seen the Hunka menu, we know we'll have to go back and try The Bombay ("Garam masala-seasoned beef burger with greens, crispy onions and cilantro-yogurt sauce"), and the Greektown Burger ("Greek-seasoned beef patty topped with feta cheese and green olive tapenade with lettuce, sliced tomato and onion on toasted buttery bun"). The onion rings here, fried in a spicy batter, are as good as any in town. The fries aren't bad.

The Mile-High Reuben just about lived up to its name. Our companion found it tasty, but a little hard to eat because of its size and because the corned beef seemed to be pulled rather than sliced. (The corned beef is roasted on-premise, according to the menu.)

Though it's no longer the Starlight Diner, the place still has the diner look and feel, with half a dozen booths, and six or eight stools at the counter. The service was quick and helpful.

Back to the pie. The Almond Joy Pie was delicious and very rich, almost too much for one person to eat. The person who ordered the French Blueberry wasn't sure what he'd be getting, but he was sort of hoping for something juicy, and that's not what he got. The filling was non-juicy, more custardy, thickened with corn starch or something similar. The person who ordered the pie was a little disappointed; another member of the group thought it excellent. The filling of the coconut custard was great, but between a thick crust on bottom and meringue on top seemed a tiny bit slighted.

The breakfast menu is served from 6 to 10:30 a.m. Monday through Saturday, and 6 a.m. through 1 p.m. Sunday. Besides the usual thing, the menu lists a "signature breakfast." This is "The I-40 pileup – Crispy tortilla filled with hashbrowns, two eggs, bacon or sausage, topped with cheddar cheese. Choice of gravy." And, yes, you can get pie at breakfast.


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