Favorite

Under the weather 

An uneven meal at Terrace on the Green.

BEEN AROUND
  • BEEN AROUND

When a restaurant survives for nearly three decades, conventional wisdom argues that it does so for good reason. So when three longtime Little Rockers went to Terrace on the Green for an overdue visit, it was with great anticipation for the unique marriage of Mediterranean and eclectic cuisine. The menu reflected this union with a great deal of elegance, variety and diversity, and we were thoroughly unsure of ourselves when the time came to order. With a little guidance from our friendly server, however, we were able to navigate our way through the appetizers and entrees.

The promise of savory yet distinctive flavors on the menu quickly faded away when we dug into our Jamaican jerk shrimp ($7.95). The shrimp, sauteed in olive oil and jerk spices, were fine but the black bean sauce was over-seasoned — it tasted, quite literally, like a salt bomb had accidentally exploded during its preparation. We avoided the sauce and moved on to the saganaki ($6.50). This dish of kaseiri cheese (flamed with brandy) had a fantastic presentation, but was curiously absent of bread, other than the complimentary pita that came with the meal.

Our third appetizer, we must say, had us swooning: The cream of curried eggplant soup ($4.25) was nothing short of divine.

For entrees, the veal Cypress ($19.95) sold itself with accompaniments of shrimp, avocado slices, and an ancho-pepper hollandaise. The sauce, sadly, was soup-like, too liquid, and it and the breaded veal weighed heavily on the stomach after several bites. Chicken Terrace, a baked chicken breast stuffed with cream cheese and chives ($15.50) was ove-dense and under-inspired.

The lamb shank ($21.50), a slow-roasted dish served with tomatoes, vegetables, and a lamb consomme, featured a nicely cooked meat, but the consomme disappointed.

Dessert did little to repair the misfires over dinner. The crust of the Pinnacle Mountain pie ($6.50) was unmanageable with standard utensils. The chocolate creme brulee ($5.50) lacked the best part — the caramelized sugar crust.

The wine list, by the way, was conservative to the core, featuring Meridian, B.V. Coastal, Geyser Peak and Blackstone. We wish that more restaurants in Little Rock would be less bashful with their wine lists. Dare to be different, we say! Not everyone wants to play it safe with a second-rate Merlot/cab/pinot noir.

We were sad to say that we left feeling a little let down by this longtime Little Rock favorite.

Terrace on the Greenn

2 1/2

2200 Rodney Parham Road

217-9393

Quick Bite

The staff seems eager to please. The menu, in some cases, sounds better than it tastes, but the restaurant deserves credit for having such an expansive list of salads, traditional and non-traditional Mediterranean appetizers and entrees. Pasta and seafood dishes and “old favorites” round off the menu, which has upwards of 20 entree selections, including moussaka, portabella ravioli and Thai shrimp.

Hours

11 a.m. to 2 p.m. Monday through Friday, 5-9:30 p.m. Monday through Thursday, 5-10:30 p.m. Friday and Saturday

Other info

Moderate to fairly expensive prices, particularly when ordering dinner. Credit cards accepted. Alcoholic beverages available.

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